Rurrenabaque

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Rurrenabaque (or simply Rurre) is a small town (population 15.000) on the banks of the Río Beni in the Bolivian Amazon Basin. Trips to the jungle in the nearby Madidi National Park and pampas are the main attraction.

[edit] Get in

To get to San Buenaventura across the Río Beni take one of the watertaxis at Calle Santa Cruz for 1 Boliviano.

[edit] By bus

There are daily busses to and from La Paz. The journey takes 20 hours. There are generally more people on the bus than seats and there isn't much space to put your legs. You can break the trip in Coroico, which is only 17 hours away. On a part of the road from La Paz to Coroico a new highway has been opened at the end of 2006, and the old 'death road' is now only for bikers. This 'death road' is also called the Yungas Road.[1]

There are also daily buses to Riberalta and Guayará-Mirim. Inquire about departure times at the bus terminal; they vary wildly. During the rainy season, this road is virtually impassible, and trips may take up to six days. When the road's in good condition, Rurrenabaque-Riberalta should take about 20 hours, and Guayará another four.

There are two offices on Avaroa offering jeep services to nearby towns and even La Paz (US$25 and only 12 hours).

[edit] By plane

A grassy field outside town is the main airport. In case it's flooded companies use the landing strip at Reyes, about 45 mins. away. There are daily connections to La Paz, but cancellations are common, especially in the rainy season.

• TAM, Santa Cruz s/n, has around two flights weekly to La Paz for Bs350. TAM likes the mastercard and Visa logos painted on their office, but only accepts cash or travellers checks.

• Amaszonas[2], Santa Cruz s/n, tel/fax (3)8922472, is slightly pricier with Bs475, but has several flights daily. Visa and mastercard are accepted, that is, if their reader works.

If you're going east or north from Rurrenabaque there's a flight with TAM from Reyes to the cities of San Borja, Trinidad, Riberalta and Guayará-Mirim (on the border with Brazil).

Airfield in Rurrenabaque: It is expected that a better runway will be built in 2007. (According to BBC News: Ecotourism on the rise in Bolivia. By David Atkinson). Preparations have started in 2006.

[edit] See & Do

• The Dirreción Municipal de Turismo, Avaroa y Vaca Diez, might be open in the high season.
• Climb up to La Cruz, the cross southeast of town for a rewarding view of Rurre and Río Beni.
• Balneario El Ambiabo. For Bs20 you can cool down in the swimmingpool.
• Zipline / Canopy tour [3]. For 20 USD You can speed through the canopy on a steel cable. Longest run is 620 meters.

Zipline in Rurre

Events, festivities: The 2nd of February: Fiesta de Rurre - Anniversary of Rurrenabaque - The day of La Virgen de Candelaria.

[edit] Tours

There are about 20 tour companies offering jungle and pampas trips, the main attractions around Rurre. The official price is US$30, but in the low season prices will drop below that. The best time to visit is in the dry (and high) season when most wildlife is attracted to the river for water, the walking trails are less muddy and there are fewer mosquitoes.

Choosing who to go with is not easy as most offers sounds more or less the same, and much is up to the guide, cooker and boat driver that happens to work during your tour. A piece of good advice is to choose one of the community based options such as San Miguel del Bala, Chalalán and Mapajo, all in the rain forest. As you stay in one of these community based Eco-Lodges you are sure to do true eco-tourism and at the same time help the indigenous people to survive economically and culturally, and to protect the natural resources where they live.

[edit] Jungle Tours

It's possible to stay between one and 30 days in the jungle. Mostly tours have lodging facilities along the Beni and Tuichi Rivers, but you can also go for a trekking and camp in the jungle. Good guides can tell you about the properties of the different plants and trees and let you taste some of the fruits. To spot wildlife you have to be lucky, most of the animals prefer to stay hidden in the dense forest. A night walk to reveal the nocturnal life is the best chance to see some. Tour prices usually don't include park entrance (Bs80) and a fee to stay in a community (Bs50). For a perfect combination of culture and nature stay in one of the community based Eco-Lodges, such as San Miguel del Bala (Tacanas), Chalalán (Quechua-Tacanas) or Mapajo (Tsiman-Mosetén).

[edit] Pampas Tours

For watching wildlife opt for a pampas tour. Among animals you might see are six different species of Crocodilian (more species than any other region in the world is home to), including the giant black caiman. There are turtles, all three species of anaconda, pink dolphins, capybaras, monkeys, giant ant-eaters, porcupines, toucans, blue and yellow macaws, and even jaguars. A number of native guides in the Pampas region are known for their snake-wrangling skills, and will catch poisonous snakes barehanded while on an excursion. Bird watchers are attracted equally to the Pampas and the Jungle, whereas entomologists tend to prefer the jungle tours, which offer a better selection of insect life, most notably butterflies. One of the unique experiences to be had in the Pampas region is swimming with pink river dolphins. The dolphins are very sociable, and will often approach the sound of a motorboat, eager to interact with the people. Because the water is darkly stained and impenetrable by sight, many people experience anxiety when touched by the dolphins, because they can't be seen underwater. For most, however, it is a thrilling experience. The dolphins greatly enjoy interacting with humans, and will each behave according to its own unique personality. Some are very gentle, and others enjoy the reactions they elicit by gently nipping a toe, or forcefully splashing the water directly behind a person. Note: the pampas tours have become very popular and touristic during the high season and have the potential to cause damage to the wild life in the small river Rio Yacuma. The tours are usually done by motor boats that can cause fatal injuries to pink river dolphins. Competent and ethical guides will know which sections of the river be extra careful in. Also, you should make sure that your guide is not showing you pre-trapped animals kept in inhumane living conditions, or letting anybody wearing sunscreen or repellent touch the animals.

[edit] Tour operators and agencies

• Flecha tours, Avaroa y Santa Cruz. Friendly service and also quiet cheap.
• Mapajo[4], Santa Cruz s/n, Junglelodge run by an indigenous community.
• Chalalan[5]. C Comercio Rurrenabaque, or book through America Tours in La Paz. Ecolodge in Madidi national park, supports the community of San Jose. 6-8hrs by boat from Rurrenabaque. Expensive (USD 370/person for 4 days) but top quality accommodation, guides and food.
• Madidi Travel[6]. Not the cheapest possible option (USD 40-60/person/day) but high quality, flexible and ecologically responsible operator. Madidi Travel has offices in La Paz and Rurrenabaque. Madidi Travel takes you to Serere Park, a private protected area with exclusive use. The schedule of activities is decided with the group upon arrival in order to best serve each individual’s interest, if necessary, providing different guides for separate activities. The guides are very friendly and knowledgeable.
• San Miguel del Bala Community Eco-Tourism[7]. Calle Comercio (between Vaca Diez and Santa Cruz) in Rurre. Tours in the rain forest with base in San Miguel del Bala Eco-lodge, reached only by boat, 40 minutes up stream from Rurrenabaque. The Eco-lodge is owned and operated by the indigenous community of San Miguel del Bala. Guides are native Tacanas. The lodge has a restaurant and 7 comfortable cabins each with 3 beds and private bathroom. Offers participating in the daily life of the Tacana community. Also information in Wikipedia: [8]

[edit] Buy

The closest cash machine is in La Paz. Prodem (commercio s/n) gives cash advances on Visa and Mastercard credit cards with 5% commision.

There are several places to change dollars or cash travellers checks. Moskkito also change euros and claim they have the best rates in town.

Several tour companies have Mastercard and Visa logo painted on their wall, but acceptence hasn't been confirmed.

[edit] Eat

• In the Mercado Municipal (Avaroa) there are severl comedors and jugerias for cheap food and fruitjuices.
• Restaurant Tacuara, Avaroa y Santa Cruz, has good deal dishes. The menu includes pizza, pasta, meat dishes and fastfood. It serves big portions of lasagna and it's also a good place for breakfast.
• Restaurant Camila's, Santa Cruz s/n, serves pastas, pizzas, mexican food meat dishes and fastfood, mainly to foreigners.
• Restaurant La Cabaña, Santa Cruz s/n, has tasty meat and fish dishes with sunset views over the Río Beni.

• Sala de fiesta, Cl. Beni (San Buenaventura), for cheap lunches. It's popular with the locals, television and loud music is included in the price

• Cafe Pachamama, cosy restaurant run by a British/Israeli couple just passed the main square. Pachamamas serves tasty sandwiches, salads, tortillas etc, and has an excellent cocktail list and happy hour (7-9pm). The DVD rooms are good quality and there are over 500 DVD`s to choose from. Upstairs is a pool room, with a balcony over looking the road complete with hammocks. They have a book exchange and a music `exchange` - just bring in your iPod and ask. Easily the best cafe in town.

[edit] Drink

• Junglebar Moskkito, In a new location on Calle vaca diez, with bar, food, three pool tables, two darts bulls and a large cd collection. Happy hour from 7pm till 9pm. But its only happy hour for SOME drinks and still is average prices. is open every day from 15:00, 45" TV set conected to cable TV for all sports and others at request. Accepts credit cards, traveler's checks, US dollars, euros, pounds. Rather expensive.

[edit] Sleep

• Hostal Touristico Santa Ana, Avaroa s/n. Clean rooms, friendly service and some lofty courtyard. There is also a pleasant hammocking area. Bathrooms (some with hot showers) are shared. All for only Bs25 pppn.

[edit] Cope

Your can bring your dirty clothes to the friendly Lavanderia Number One and for Bs8 a kilo you can pick them up fresh an clean the same day.

For Internet go to Únete Sat (Avaroa s/n) or Camila's, both charge Bs18 for a slow connection.

[edit] Get out

By bus or plane, but plan enough time for your return-trip. It's always possible that no plane or bus takes you out, because of rain or riots. There are always a lot of panic-tourists who misses their flights in La Paz.