Mesa Verde National Park

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The ladder at Balcony House

Mesa Verde National Park [1] is a United States National Park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is located in the southwestern corner of the state of Colorado. The park is world-renowned for the incredibly well-preserved cliff dwellings it protects. Indeed, they are some of the most interesting archeological sights in North America. Mesa Verde is also notable for its desert landscape of tall mesas and steep canyons.

[edit] Understand

Sun Temple

[edit] History

Note that the term "Anasazi" has fallen out of favor, as it translates to "ancient enemy" or "enemy ancestor". The Ancestral Puebloans (as they are now called) were labeled "Anasazi" by rival tribes in the area.

The name of the park comes from the Spanish for "green table", referring to the vegetation found at the tops of the plateaus in this area. The Ancestral Puebloans chose Mesa Verde as their settlement 1,400 years ago, establising small pithouses (large holes in the ground with a wooden roof overhead) on the mesa tops. Back then they were more nomadic, and were skilled basketmakers. Over time they became farmers, learned how to create pottery, and fashioned bow and arrows instead of spears.

As the population grew and grew, the Ancestral Puebloans moved from pithouses to pole-and-adobe houses built above ground. The pithouses became kivas (ceremonial rooms) as the mesa top villages became larger and more complex. Stone masonry replaced the poles and mud of earlier houses, as villages rose two or three stories high, became more compact, and had many rooms. Pottery replaced baskets as a more desired craft.

Around the year 1200, people began to move under overhangs found in the cliffs of the canyons. Here, they built cities with multi-storied structures that housed 100-400 people. However, the Ancestral Puebloans only used these incredible constructions for less than 100 years. By the year 1300, they had left for reasons unknown, traveling south into New Mexico and Arizona.

[edit] Landscape

From the park entrance in Montezuma Valley, the elevation climbs steeply to the rim of the flat mesa top. Traveling south, the mesa extends like fingers into the desert, where water streams form steep canyons separating the individual mesas.

[edit] Flora and fauna

There is a lot of wildlife in the park. Mule deer are a common sight, as are wild turkeys since the park service reintroduced them. You might also see squirrels, skunks, or an occasional black bear around the campground. Other mammals seen in the park include coyote, gray fox, mountain lion, black bear, elk, marmot, and porcupines. There is also a wide vareity of birds in the park (Mesa Verde even has a bird checklist). In the canyons you could find warblers, flycatchers, woodpeckers, jays, hawks, chickadees, titmice, and other species. Hawks, golden eagles, and peregrine falcons can be seen on the rim of the mesa along the Montezuma Valley.

Mesa Verde is in the Upper Sonoran Life Zone, which is characterized by semi-arid climate, moderately high altitude, and pinyon-juniper forests. Big sagebrush, Douglas fir, and Ponderosa pine are quite common. Gambel oak is in abundance around the Morefield Campground.

Watch for poison ivy, particularly around Morefield Campground and in the canyons.

[edit] Climate

Mesa Verde is a four-season park, with a dry high-desert climate. Summer can get hot (temperatures can reach into the 90's, so drink plenty of water), but the evenings are quite cool. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August. Winters are mild, but Mesa Verde is high up there so snow can happen as early as October and as late as May.

[edit] Orientation

The major attractions in the park can be seen in just a half day, while longer visits will allow time to explore some of the less busy ruins and to take time to visit rock writings.

Mesa Verde is something of a seasonal park. While it is open year round, many of the services are only offered from April through October. The only places open year-round are at the central part of Chapin Mesa: the museum, the Spruce Tree Terrace restaurant, and Spruce Tree House.

Direct access to the main archeological sights is only available on guided tours, tickets must be purchased at the Far View Visitor Center. Otherwise, plan on viewing the sights from overlooks.

[edit] Get in

Map of Chapin Mesa

[edit] By car

Driving is just about the only way to get to Mesa Verde. The entrance to the park is 9 miles east of Cortez and 35 miles west of Durango on US Highway 160 (formerly US Highway 666). Keep in mind that the road into the park is steep, narrow, and winding, so make sure your car is in good shape and has plenty of gas. The only gas station in the park is located at the Morefield Campground.

Trailers and towed vehicles are not permitted beyond Morefield Campground. If you're not camping, you can park these vehicles in the parking lot located near the entrance station. Inside the park, the road to Wetherill Mesa (open Memorial Day to Labor Day) has sharp curves and steep grades, so vehicles on this road are restricted to less than 8,000 pounds and 25-feet in length.

[edit] By air

Cortez has a small airport with daily flights to Denver, and a couple of rental car outlets. Durango has a larger airport with daily flights to Denver, Phoenix, Salt Lake City, and weekly flights to Dallas, and a number of rental car outlets.

[edit] Fees/Permits

A 7 day entry pass to the park costs $10 per private vehicle. Ranger-led tours of the Cliff Palace, Balcony House and Long House areas cost $3.00 each.

[edit] Get around

There are four main areas of the park: Morefield Campground, Far View, Chapin Mesa, and Wetherill Mesa. Morefield Campground is just inside the park, 4 miles from the entrance. Another 11 miles in is Far View, where you can drive another 6 miles to Chapin Mesa or turn right and drive 12 miles to get to Wetherill Mesa.

No shuttle services are available in the park so you will need private transportation in order to move throughout the park. The roads are steep, narrow, and winding, so make sure your car is in good shape and has plenty of gas. You can get gasoline at the Morefield Campground store. Watch out for rocks that may have fallen on to the road.

Trailers and towed vehicles are not permitted beyond Morefield Campground. If you're not camping, you can park these vehicles in the parking lot located near the entrance station. The road to Wetherill Mesa (open Memorial Day to Labor Day) has sharp curves and steep grades, so vehicles on this road are restricted to less than 8,000 pounds and 25-feet in length.

[edit] See

• Far View Visitor Center, located near the center of the park, 15 miles from the park entrance. Open mid-April to mid-October, 8AM-5PM daily. Tickets for guided tours of Cliff Palace, Balcony House, and Long House on Wetherill Mesa must be purchased here. Self-guided tour guides (Mesa Top Road, Far View Sites, etc.) can be purchased here as well. Exhibits, bookstore.

• The park has many scenic vistas where you can observe the natural beauty of Mesa Verde. Just off the main park road is Montezuma Valley Overlook, Park Point Overlook, and Geologic Overlook. There are also good views from the Far View Visitor Center, the Chapin Mesa Museum viewing deck, and the two loop roads on Chapin Mesa.

[edit] Chapin Mesa sights

Square Tower House

• Historic District, located 21 miles from the park entrance. Most of Mesa Verde's old park service buildings can be found here, with many of the structures here dating back to the 1920's. The park headquarters, Spruce Tree Terrance restaurant, post office, museum, and the picnic area are located here. Self-guided tour maps are available.
  • Chapin Mesa Museum, open 8AM-6:30PM spring-fall, 8AM-5PM fall-spring. Archeological exhibits about the culture of the Ancestral Puebloans, with artifacts from the region and dioramas illustrating life in Mesa Verde centuries ago. A 25-minute orientation film is shown every half-hour.

• Spruce Tree House. Starting at the Chapin Mesa Museum, you descend 100 feet into Spruce Tree Canyon, where you'll see Mesa Verde's "best-preserved cliff dwelling". As well as seeing the cliff house, you can climb down into a reconstructed kiva. Rangers are at the site to answer questions (or make good conversation). In the winter, you may only visit Spruce Tree by ranger-guided tour. Walking distance is 1/2-mile (1km) round trip.

• Mesa Top Loop Road. A 6-mile (10km) driving tour with short, paved trails to several excavated mesa-top sites. Also along the tour is a short trail to the Square Tower House overlook, Sun Point View (where you can see 6 or 7 cliff houses at the same time), and Sun Temple, which boasts a spectacular view of Cliff Palace.

• Far View Sites, located off the road in-between the Far View Visitor Center and the Chapin Mesa Museum. An unpaved 3/4-mile loop trail leads to five separate mesa-top villages and a dry reservoir. Interesting exhibits along the trail show what the villages may have looked like.

• Cedar Tree Tower, located off the road in-between the Far View Visitor Center and the Chapin Mesa Museum. An ancient kiva complex and tower, the purpose of which isn't entirely known.

[edit] Wetherill Mesa sights

Wetherill Mesa is only open seasonally. The Wetherill Mesa road is open from 9AM-4:30PM every day, from Memorial Day to Labor Day. At the end of the road is the Wetherill Mesa Kiosk, 12 miles from Far View. Tram service to Badger House, the Kodak House Overlook, and Long House starts at the kiosk.

• Badger House Trail. A combination gravel and paved trail to the mesa-top Badger House sites. Trail starts at the Kiosk, and is 2.5 miles (4km) round-trip. However, you may take the tram and shorten your walking distance to 1.5 miles.

• Step House. Starting at the Kiosk, trail descends 100 feet to Step House. Walking distance is 3/4-mile round trip.

[edit] Do

Balcony House

[edit] Ranger guided tours

Guided tours are the only way to see some of Mesa Verde's greatest and most outstanding cliff dwellings: Cliff Palace, Balcony House, and Long House (on Wetherill Mesa). Tickets cost $3 per person, per tour, and must be purchased at the Far View Visitor Center. The one exception is in the fall, after the Visitor Center has closed, when tours of Cliff Palace must be purchased at the Chapin Mesa Museum. Be forewarned that each tour does involve traversing uneven stairways and tall wooden ladders. While the overall distance you travel on the hiking tour isn’t very far, the nature of the trail, high altitude, and extreme temperatures all combine to make the hike a little grueling for the average couch potato.

• Cliff Palace, early-April through early-November. Tour starts at the Cliff Palace overlook on the Cliff Palace Loop Road. This one-hour tour descends 100 feet to Mesa Verde's most famous cliff house. Along the way you must climb five 8-10ft ladders.

• Balcony House, late-April through early-October. Tour starts at the Balcony House parking area on the Cliff Palace loop road. Balcony House is more "adventurous" than the other tours, for on this one-hour tour you have to climb a 32ft ladder, crawl through a 12ft-long tunnel, and to get out climb a 60ft stairway carved out of a steep rock face. If you enjoy heights, this tour is for you.

• Long House (Wetherill Mesa), Memorial Day through Labor Day. Tour starts at the Wetherill Mesa Kiosk, where you take a tram to the Long House trailhead. This 90-minute tour involves climbing two 15ft ladders.

• Spruce Tree House, early-November through early-March. In the winter, rangers will start tours at the Chapin Mesa Museum and lead you down to the Spruce Tree House. These tours are free of charge.

[edit] Guided bus tours

Aramark operates half-day and full-day bus tours of Mesa Verde spring through fall. Aramark guides take you to short trails, overlooks, and the Spruce Tree House. Full-day tours also include lunch and a tour of Cliff Palace. Tickets may be purchased at the Far View Visitor Center, Far View Lodge and Terrace, or the Morefield Campground Village. Half-day tours begin at the Far View Terrace, and full-day tours begin at the Far View Terrace and the Morefield Campground Village.

[edit] Hiking trails

Mesa Verde offers several designated hiking trails. Backcountry hiking or overnight backpacking is not allowed, so as to protect the natural and archeological sites in the park. All the trails (except Soda Canyon Overlook and Knife Edge) are strenuous and involve steep elevation changes. Some trails offer little shade, and it can get pretty hot in the summer, so be sure to take along lots of water.

Morefield Campground trails:

• Prater Ridge Trail, 7.8 miles round-trip. Beginning on the west end of Morefield Campground, the trail ascends Prater Ridge and follows a loop around the top of the ridge.

• Knife Edge Trail, 2 miles round-trip. Starting at the northwest corner of Morefield Campground, this trail follows the old Knife Edge Road, which was built in 1914 as the main access into the park. Great view of Montezuma Valley at the end. Trail guides are available.

• Point Lookout Trail, 2.2 miles round-trip. Starting at the northeast corner of Morefield Campground, this trail switchbacks up the side of Point Lookout, the mesa you will see on the road into the park.

Chapin Mesa trails:

• Petroglyph Point Trail, 2.4 miles round-trip. Starting at the Spruce Tree House trail, this trail travels down Spruce Tree Canyon, then climbs to the rim of Chapin Mesa and winds back around to the museum. This is the only trail in Mesa Verde where you can see petroglyphs. Registration is required to hike this trail. Trail guides are available.

• Spruce Canyon Trail, 2.4 miles round-trip. Beginning at the Spruce Tree House trail, this trail goes down the bottom of Spruce Tree Canyon and winds back around to Spruce Canyon, then climbs back up to Chapin Mesa at the picnic area. Registration is required to hike this trail.

• Soda Canyon Overlook Trail, 1.2 miles round-trip. Starting about a mile north of the Balcony House parking area on the Cliff Palace loop road, this trail winds around the canyon edge and ends at an overlook of Balcony House.

Wetherill Mesa trails:

• Nordenskiold Site No. 16 Trail, 1 mile round-trip. Starting at the Wetherill Mesa Kiosk, this trail ends at an overlook of Nordenskiold Site No. 16, one of the first excavated sites in Mesa Verde.

[edit] Buy

The Visitor Center and the Chapin Mesa Museum have a bookstore, and gift shops are located in the Spruce Tree Terrance (near the museum) and the Far View Lodge. Buying postcards of the sites is recommended. The post cards are higher quality pictures than you can take and will save you the hassle of trying to get that perfect shot of the sites with nobody else in it and allow you to focus on getting photos of you and your group having fun. There are also Native Americans in the parks that sell their arts and crafts. Take a look if Southwestern jewelry and art interest you.

For groceries, camping supplies, and gasoline, the camp store at the Morefield Campground is the only place in the park. They also have a laundromat.

[edit] Eat

One of Mesa Verde's mesa-top sites

Food is available at three locations in the park:

• Far View Terrace & Marketplace, located near the Far View Visitor Center. April-October, 7AM-7PM. A variety of food in several styles (burgers, pizza, Southwestern, Native American, etc.) is available in this cafeteria. The dining room has a large window facing some of the mesas and canyons of the park.
• Spruce Tree Terrace, located near the Chapin Mesa Museum. Daily, 11AM-4PM(with extended hours in the summer). Burgers, sandwiches and salads.
• The Metate Room, located within Far View Lodge. April-October, 5PM-9:30AM (dinner & breakfast). This restaurant offers the most sophisticated dining in the park. Casual dress.

[edit] Sleep

[edit] Lodging

The only lodging within the park is at Far View Lodge, close to the Far View Visitor Center and the Far View Terrace Marketplace.

• Far View Lodge, April-October, +1 800 449-2288, [2]. 150 rooms, all non-smoking and with private balcony. There are no phones or TVs in the rooms. $110-127

Lodging also is available in the nearby city of Cortez, and farther away in Durango.

[edit] Camping

Morefield Campground serves as the only camping in the park. The campsites are quite nice, most of them with lots of trees for privacy (and the campground rarely fills up), and all of them have a table, bench, and grill. There are also RV sites with full hookups. The restrooms are clean, and there's free showers. At the entrance to the campground is a store (where you can get gas, groceries and camp supplies), a RV dumping station, and a 24-hour laundromat. Open mid-May through mid-October. $20/night (RV sites with hookups $25/night)

[edit] Backcountry

Backcountry camping or overnight backpacking is not allowed in Mesa Verde to protect the scenic and archeological sights in the park.

[edit] Stay safe

Visits to cliff dwellings can be strenuous, there are uneven steps and ladders to climb. Almost all of the trails in Mesa Verde are difficult. It can get hot in the summer, drink lots of water. Be careful while driving, the roads are filled with sharp curves.

[edit] Get out

• Durango has its charm, and a few attractions including a historic narrow gauge railroad.
• Hovenweep National Monument [3] is a quiet park located nearby, and contains the ruins of several Puebloan-era villages.

Wikipedia:Mesa Verde National Park