Marrakech

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Katoubia Mosque, Marrakech

Marrakech (مراكش) (also known as Marrakesh) is a city in Morocco.

[edit] Understand

The town of Marrakech is divided into two distinct parts: the Medina, or the historical city, and the new city with two principal districts that are called: Gueliz and Hivernage. Gueliz is thus the European modern district of the town of Marrakech. Its name comes from the French word “église” some say, because the first monument that was built there was the Catholic Church Saints Martyrs. But some tend to affirm that the name is rather Berber and comes from the hill of Gueliz.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By air

• Marrakech-Menara Airport (IATA: RAK), Tel: +212 (0)4 444 7865, [1]. This international airport is located about 6km (4 mi) and 10-15 minutes away from the city by taxi. Plenty of low cost companies now fly to Marrakech. Some companies fly to Casablanca additionally where a plane change for the 45 minute flight to Marrakech can be made.

The best way, if you do not have too much luggage with you, is to take a new bus (line 19) that goes over the main points of the City (Place Djemaa L'Fna, Bus station, Gueliz, hotels...). It costs 20DH one way, 30 DH with return included. You avoid one of the worse moments of a traveller, the hassle of the taxi drivers when you arrive to a new country.

If going from airport by petit taxi, make sure to have the driver use his meter or agree on the price beforehand. As you exit the airport terminal, there is a sign which actually gives you an idea of how much the taxi ride should cost. As to whether you can convince or bargain with the driver to use these prices is another matter however. It depends on the number of taxis and potential passengers around. Essentially, you should pay no more than 60 dirham from the airport to the centre of the city during the day and 90 dirham at night for a petite taxi. If you press the drivers, these prices are easily obtainable. However, be aware that you might have to accept a higher price. In this event, dont pay more than 100 dirham in the daytime and 150 at night.

If you are traveling from the airport to somewhere further afield (e.g. Essaouria), your hotel or guest house may be able to arrange a grand taxi to pick you up at the airport, and charge a fixed price for the journey (see #Getting around). Grand taxis are generally more expensive than petit taxis, but more comfortable especially when you have luggage. It also avoids hassle, as it's not always easy to haggle with a taxi driver after staggering off a long plane journey half-asleep.

As a guide for using taxi services in Morocco, you should approach the taxi, tell the driver where you want to go and how much you will pay. If the driver doesn't accept, just move onto the next driver.

Several international rental car companies are based at the airport as well.

You can fly from several European cities direct to Marrakech on Atlas Blue [2] which is an offshoot of Royal Air Maroc [3]. British Airways [4] flies from London Heathrow and London Gatwick to Marrakech. Easyjet [5] began fly to Marrakech from Madrid and begin flying from Gatwick airport in the UK in July 2006.

Ryanair announced in August 2006 that they will begin direct flights from London Luton to Marrakech. (sometimes for under £40 return). Thomsonfly travel from Manchester for under £60.

Royal Air Morocco, 197 boulevard Mohamed V, Tel: 43 62 05, [6]. Connects to other domestic destinations such as Agadir, Casablanca (daily), Fez (daily), Ouarzazate, Al Hoceima and Tangier.

[edit] Money exchange in the airport

The Arrivals hall at Terminal 2 has a money changing outlet and an ATM. Terminal 1 has two money changing outlets in the Arrivals hall and one in Departures. So if you find the money changing outlets are closed when you arrive, it's worth taking the short walk across the car park to the other terminal.

[edit] By train

Train connections are available from the train station, Avenue Hassan II, Tel: 44 77 68, [7]. to Casablanca and Rabat and Tangier, which connect on with most domestic rail destinations in the country. There is a train hourly during all the day. First and second class differ in the seating comfort and with the amount of people and that seats are not reserved in second class, but since Marrakech is the first station, you'll find place if you arrive with time to the station.

Trains arrive from Casablanca around every 2 hours, and regularly from other destinations such as Rabat. The train station is located in the recently developed ville nouvelle. Frequent local buses leave from just across the street into the medina and modern tourist area. Petit taxi drivers will also be quick to offer their service, but pay no more than Dh 10 - 15 for this short ride during the daytime up until 8pm. After this time, taxi drivers will charge the daytime rate plus 50%.

For those wishing to travel by train from Tangier, the cost from Tangier to Marrakech is currently 180 Dirham 2nd class and 280 dirham 1st class. The journey is an excellent one for sightseeing, so, if you can, try and do this journey by day. It's about a 10 hour journey. The Tanger to Marrakech route is definitely recommended as a way to see Morocco and best taken during the daytime, for this purpose.

During the daytime, you will need to change train for a connection halfway through the journey and this makes a welcome break for about 30 minutes. The night trains which leave for Marrakech from Tangier travel straight through to Marrakech without the need for a connection.

The night trains do have sleeper cars on board, though you will need to pay extra for these if you want a bed.

There is currently no train line further south than Marrakech in Morocco.

Some advice for the train journey would be to stock up on some bread, eggs and cheese in advance and remember to bring plenty to offer to share with locals in your carriage - this is received well and will result in a return offer and lots of conversation. Additionally, there is a snack trolley which does the rounds on the train about once per hour serving coffee, Cappucino, tea, sandwiches and chocolate snacks. Be aware though that you will pay tourist prices, though in the end the difference is not much.

[edit] By bus

There are many long distance bus companies operating within Morocco which serve Marrakech and other cities.

The usual recommended bus companies for tourists are CTM and Supratours. Other companies do exist, though these two companies are usually your safest options.

Most ALSA (local destination bus company) and private bus lines arrive at the long distance bus station near Bab Doukkala, a 20 minute walk (Dh 15 - 20 by petit taxi) from Jema el-Fna. Supratours and Eurolines buses operate from here. It's the place to take the buses from the small companies, that go directly to small destinations.

From the long distance bus station, CTM and private bus companies service destinations such as to Agadir, Safi, Casablanca, El Jadida, Essaouira, Fez, Meknes, Ouarzazate, Rabat and Taroudant.

CTM has another small station at the Gueliz, at Zerktouni street. It's better to take them there, because you can buy the tickets for advance (you'll find place) and the buses that leave from Bab Doukala go directly there and stop for half an hour and even change the bus. Besides, the CTM's offices there are better, and there's no people trying to push you to their bus company.

Cost from Marrakech to Agadir: 90 Dirham.

[edit] Get around

Once in the medina, everything can be seen on foot, though you'll be doing a lot of walking. For exploring more of the city, buses and petit taxis are plentiful. Almost all buses stop at Jema El Fna and Place Youssef Ben Tachfine and fares range from Dh 2 to Dh 5 depending on the distance. Important municipal bus lines are:

• No 1 - Towards Gueliz
• No 8 - Stops at the central train station
• No 10 - Stops at the long distance bus station
• No 11 - Will drop you off at the gardens of Menara

An alternative and romantic way to travel is by caleche - pronounced kalesh - a small horse-drawn carriage. They can be hired at Square de Foucauld (the small park at the bottom of Djemma El Fna). It's wise to agree a price before setting off. As a guide price, you should pay around 80 Dirham per hour, per carriage.

There is an open-topped City Sightseeing bus that will take you around the outskirts of the city, with commentary provided via headphones (supplied with your ticket) in any of 8 different languages. The best place to catch it is from the coach stops by Square de Foucauld. Tickets cost 130 Dh each and are valid for 24 hours from the time of issue, no matter how many times you get on or off. However, check the timetable carefully, as the buses can stop running earlier than you might think.

[edit] See

While not considered as well preserved as other Moroccan cities such as Fez, Marrakech offers several historical and architectural sites as well as some interesting museums.

• Djemma El Fna is the highlight of any Marrakech night. Musicians, dancers and story tellers pack this square at the heart of the medina, filling it with a cacophony of drum beats and excited shouts. Scores of stalls sell a wide array of Moroccan fare (see the Eat section) and you will almost certainly be accosted by women wanting to give you a henna tattoo. Many beggars and touts.

• The souks (suuqs) or markets of Marrakech, just adjacent to Place Jema El Fna, is where you can buy most anything. From spices to shoes, jalabas to kaftans, tea pots to tagines and much, much more. Undoubtedly, being a foreigner will still mean you will end up paying a higher price for whatever you are buying than a native would, but be sure to bargain nonetheless.

• Koutoubia mosque, Just adjacent to Djemma El Fna. It is said that the minaret of the Koutoubia mosque is to Marrakech as the Eiffel Tower is to Paris. The minaret is visible from Gueliz which is connected to the Medina by Ave. Mohammed V.

Majorelle Gardens

• Majorelle Gardens, in Gueliz. With entrance fee of 30 dirhams, it is more expensive than other attractions but provides an excellent respite from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. The park boasts a collection of plants from across the globe, including what seems like every cactus species on the planet. Inside the gardens is also the Museum of Islamic Art, for which an additional entrance fee is charged.

• Musee Dar si Said, on Rue Riad Zitoun Jdid. A museum 5 minutes walk from Djemma El Fna, and a little tricky to find. Set in an old palace, and houses many different artifacts from Morocco through the ages, such as wood carvings, musical instruments and weapons.

• Ben Youssef madrasa

• El Bahia palace Ornate and beautiful this is popular with guided tours and stray cats. Nice garden with banana flowers, tranquil courtyards. Admission, 10dh.

• El Badi palace Now in ruins and inhabited by storks and stray cats. Some underground passageways to explore. Admission, 10dh. The view from the terrace is majestic.

[edit] Do

• Yoga has become increasingly popular in recent years as visitors come to the city either as individuals or with organised trips. Although it's been slower to take off than in other parts of the world, Marrakech is Morocco's yoga centre.

• Tours Marrakech can make a good base for exploring the Atlas Mountains or for organising one to four day Sahara treks. While there are countless agencies on Ave Mohammed V that will organise such tours for those seeking the comfort of an air-conditioned 4x4 and have money to spare, budget travellers may want to check out the Marrakech stalwart Sahara Tours (Rue Bam Marme et Mouahidine, Tel (044) 42-79-77 / 42-97-47. fax (044) 42-79-72)

Hostel Marrakech Adventures in Morocco, [8]. Offers information and secure reservations for many tours and excursions departing from Marrakech. Included in the range of tours available are day trips to Essouaira, Imlil, the Ouzoud cascades and 2, 3 and 4 day tours to the desert (including Zagora and merzouga). Other options include

• The impressive 110 meter waterfall, the Cascades d'Ouzoud are about 160km away and are well worth a day trip visiting.

[edit] Hammams

There are 2 types of Hammam across Morocco.

The first is the "tourist" Hammam, where you can go and be pampered and scrubbed by an experienced staff member. These usually, as they are promoted only to tourists, the more expensive option with pricing usually around 150 Dirham for a Hammam.

The second option is to visit a "Popular" Hammam. Popular Hammams are the places where the Locals go.

At the popular Hammams, you do it all yourself. To make the most of a popular Hammam, you need to take a scrubbing mitten (available for cheap in the Souks) a towel and some extra underwear.

Men & women have either separate session times or separate Hammams.

Nudity in a popular Hammam is strictly forbidden for men; you'll see some women wearing underwear, and some nude.

Whilst in a popular Hammam, you may be offered help and a massage from another person. It is essential to remember that this massage is nothing else but a massage, with no other intentions. Indeed sexual contact or presumption of sexual contact does not occur in these places. If you accept a massage, be prepared to return the favour.

Normal entrance prices for a popular hammam are 7-15dh; a scrub will cost around 30dh, and a massage another 30dh.

[edit] Medina

• Les Bains de Marrakech, [9]; 2, Derb Sedra, Bab Agnaou (same building as Riad Mehdi); tel +212(24)38-14-28. Tourists-oriented in good sense: couples can have hammam together in a private room. Extensive list of massages and spa treatments, from 30min to a full day. Reception and attendants proficient in English; scrubbing and massage personnel speak only very basic vocabulary; understand even less.

• Dar Si Saïd Museum. Dedicated to the Moroccan craft industry of wood, gathering a very beautiful collection of popular art: carpets, clothing, pottery and ceramics... All These objects are regional, coming from Marrakech and all the south, specially from Tensift, High Atlas, Soussthe, Anti Atlas, Bani and Tafilal.

[edit] Buy

Spices at a Marrakesh market.

Along with the major souk adjacent to the Djemaa el Fna, there are a plethora of smaller souks throughout the city where any number of products can be bargained for. Keep an eye out for a wide array of hand-crafted candle-holding lanterns, as well as spectacular displays of local spices.

Marrakech is home to a large tanning industry, and leather goods of high quality can be bought here cheaply. Check out camel leather items especially - jackets, round poufs, and handbags.

Also of interest would be items made of the local cactus silk, which is apparently made from weaving cactus fibres mixed with a small amount of silk, and dyed with vegetable dyes. On offer are scarves, handbags, tablecloths, bedspreads and throws in stunning colors.

Be sure to wander round the potters' souk, and look for brightly coloured platters and bowls, as well as tagines in all sizes

[edit] Bargaining

Remember that bargaining in the souks is expected. It is not really possible to give an accurate indication of how much to start the bargaining at in relation to the initial asking price. Prices are set on a daily, even, hourly basis, depending on how much has been sold on a given day (or period of hours), while also reflecting the vendors personal estimation of the potential client. The souks are often a good reflection of the basic economic principles of supply and demand, particularly with regard to the demand side. If a lot of products have been sold by a particular merchant he/she will raise the price, and may refuse to sell any more products for the rest of that day (or for days) unless the price is much higher than usual. If there are many tourists around prices go higher, and bargaining even small amounts off the asking price becomes quite difficult. In addition, the seller will generally inspect the client, whose dress and possessions (particularly if the potential client sports an expensive Swiss watch, camera, tourist trinkets of obvious poor quality etc) are usually the main indication of how high the price may be set above the usual. However, the potential client's attitude is also taken into consideration.

Taking all this and other factors into account (such as the time of day, day of the week, season etc), initial prices may be up to 50 times or more in excess of what would normally be paid, either by a local, or a patient and well-instructed tourist, especially for more expensive items, such as carpets. Carpets, however, are a very specialized item, and it is necessary to have at least a cursory understanding of production techniques and qualities, and if possible an ability to distinguish between hand-made and machine-made carpets, hand-dyes and the like, if one is not to be utterly duped. Western visitors would be surprised, for instance, how beautiful a carpet can be appropriated by a skillful negotiator inside of 50 euros.

Bargaining is an enjoyable experience for most vendors, and they prefer clients that don't appear hurried and are willing to take the time to negotiate. It is most often actually necessary to give reasons for why you believe the price should be lower. The reasons you might give are limited only by your imagination and often lead to some very entertaining discussions. Common reasons may include: the price of the item elsewhere, the item not being exactly what you are after, the fact that you have purchased other items from the stall/store, that you have built a rapport with the vendor after discussing football and so forth. On the other hand, if there is little movement in the price after some time, the best advice is to begin leaving, this often has the result of kick-starting the bidding anew, and if not, it is likely that the merchant is actually unwilling to go further below a given price, however absurd. In fact, the best general advice is simply to go to several merchants selling similar products and weigh their collective prices and attitudes. Revisiting a merchant at a later time may or may not allow you to bargain a given product more effectively. In one respect, to return puts the ball back in the vendor's court, as it is obvious that he/she has the product you want at the closest price, but in another respect, if some time has passed between visits, and business has been slow in the interim, and your return to the store is interpreted as a gesture of fidelity, the price may miraculously plummet. Many of the vendors can be very charming themselves, and a little charm may also go a long way. Nevertheless, this should not entail conceding to a vendor at an unacceptable price. That, of course, would defeat the point. Rather, charm is just another tactic that may or may not be effective in reducing the price of a given item.

It is also important to show a genuine interest for the workmanship of the product for sale, however disinterested you may actually be in what you are buying. This does not, however, mean that you should appear over-enthusiastic, as this will encourage the vendor to hold his/her price. Rather, it is important to project a critical appreciation for each article/object. Any defects are either unacceptable, or a further opportunity to bargain the price down.

Caution should be taken never to begin bidding for unwanted items, or to give the vendor a price you are unwilling or unable (with cash on hand) to pay. Try to avoid paying by credit card at all costs, and in the event, never let the credit card out of your sight, and demand as many receipts as you can possibly get your hands on. There is typically a credit card carbon copy and an official shop receipt. Never tell a vendor where you are staying (unless it is a backpackers), and 'never tell a vendor how much you have paid for any other items that you may have. Just say that you got a good price, and you want a good price from him/her too. And, above all, never be afraid to say 'No'.

It must also be said that, as for us buyers, not all sellers are actually very good at what they do. A vendor that is completely disinterested or even aggressive is unlikely to give a good price. Move on.

All in all, a good negotiation can be a fun experience. Also remember that Marrakech is the only place visited by such a large quantity of tourists, so prices can be higher than elsewhere, although not necessarily so. If at all possible, look first at the prices and qualities of items in other cities by way of comparison.

Otherwise, if you buy sweet cakes, avoid buying them in the Magasins were the scale is hidden. In one of the main streets of the Medina, there are two that often take advantages from that.

[edit] Eat

The main Carlie: at Djemma El Fna is definitely worth a visit, and the food is priced on menus. In little back streets the ambience is more quiet, although the price is higher and the quality may vary a lot. Touts for Djemma huts can be among the most persistent in Marrakech. Don't make them any promises you don't intend on keeping, or they'll get mean and call you a liar. The line 'we already ate' seems to work well to get them to stop. In the square itself there are some locals such as:

• Chez Chegrouni, Tagine 35 DH, Harira 15 DH. Near the main entrance to the market. Maybe the best cheap restaurant in the square. Their vegetarian couscous (30dh,) is supposedly the only true vegetarian couscous in town; it's also bland but they give you plenty of it. Prices go up if you sit on the terrace. Usually packed full of good-time tourists.

• Cafe Alhamra On the edge of the square, serves up salads, pizza and pasta as well as a tagine of the day. Their rooftop is a good place to have a late night coffee and pastry while watching the events in the square below.

• Cafe Agrana On the edge of Djemma El Fna. Try the pastilla - a sweet/savory pie (either chicken or, for the adventerous, pigeon) that melts in the mouth.

• La Makarechi opposite the market and adjacent to the newspaper stand. With two main courses and wine running at around 300 Dh, this is one of the poshest restaurants in the square. The food is not necessarily better than elsewhere, but it is one of the few restaurants that serve alcohol. It also has a completely enclosed upstairs terrace, which is ideal for views of the square when the weather is bad.

• The two places in the southeast corner serve much the same menu. Popular with travellers for breakfast. Set breakfasts at 20 dh with orange juice, coffee, tasteless pastry and choice of limp omlette or greasy crepe.

• Cafe Mabrouk (off Jma el-Fna). Serves the same thing as everywhere else in a little courtyard or terrace. Bland, hard pizzas, 35 dh.

Take care eating the offered food on the main market place Djemma El Fna and the other cheap restaurants. Many of the dishes, including goat heads and bowls of local snails (hot and tasty) may seem too adventurous for the Western palate, but the main problems are salads, which can cause diarrhea.

Vegetarians will find that there are few options outside the ubiquitous Tagine avec Legumes.

For more upscale eateries, and especially for non-Morroccan cuisine, you will have to go outside the Medina to Ville Nouvelle.

[edit] How to eat (well) in the Djemma El Fna

Djemma El Fna in full swing

If you want to eat well in Marrakech, do what the locals do and eat at the food stalls in the Square. It is a common mis-conception that these stalls are here for the tourists. Actually, they have been in existence long before Marrakech became a tourist destination. All of the stalls can be regarded as perfectly safe to eat at. They are strictly licensed and controlled by the government...especially now as it is a usual destination for tourists.

Some tips:

• There is no such thing as a "Touristic food stall" in the Djemaa.
• Prices tend to vary a little. Depending upon how hungry you are, you can pay anything from 10 Dirham for a Bread filled with freshly grilled Sausages or perhaps a bowl of Harira soup to 100 Dirham for a full 3 course meal with salad, bread, starter, main course and tea.
• Try harira (great soup, good for veggies) and the fried aubergines. Don't be afraid, try the lamb head: it's really tasty. Also, give a chance to the "bull stew" (beef stew), on the same stalls
• Don't miss the tea! There is a row of Tea sellers along the front of the food stalls who each sell tea for 1.5dh each. Most of the tea at these stalls is actually Ginseng tea with Cinnamon and Ginger...most delicious and welcoming.

[edit] Drink

Hot sweet mint tea is served in all restaurants and cafes.

Street vendors offer fresh orange juice (jus d'Orange) by the glass for 3 Dh. Try it with a dash of salt like the locals, but be wary of vendors who try and water the juice down with tap water.

All stalls at Djemma El Fna (and some stalls elsewhere?) display the price on a sign, making it less likely you'll be overcharged.

However, pay attention when you buy as they offer 2 types of orange...the blood orange juice costs 10 Dirham per glass and a misunderstanding on what you want to drink could occur.

Wine and beer will rarely be found outside of restaurants catering to tourists.

However, Hotel Tazi in the Medina of Marrakech does have a public bar, serving beer and wine at not too expensive prices.

[edit] Sleep

There are three main zones to sleep: Medina, Guéliz (also known as Ville Nouvelle) and the surroundings of the city. The Medina has the highest concentration of very cheap hotels and ryads or small palaces.

Guéliz is much more quiet, and most of the hotels are mid price (including showers in the room, breakfast service...).

Going to the medina from the Guéliz by taxi costs about 10-15 DH and can take a long time at busy periods (evenings and weekends)

The surroundings have all the huge touristic hotels, the ones that usually come with the travel agencies offers. They can be far, but have big swimming pools, restaurants, and many services.

[edit] Medina

[edit] Hostels

The Heart of the Medina backpackers hostel (http://www.marrakech-hostel.com email: reservations@marrakech-hostel.com; 47 Derb Ben Aissa ,Dabachi).

Newly opened on 1st March 2007 is the first ever backpackers hostel to be located in the Marrakech Medina. The hostel is located literally 1 minute walk from the Djemaa place and offers guest kitchens, rooftop terrace, free hot showers and comfortable surroundings in rooms with no more than 6 beds to a room. Breakfast is included in the price as are bed linen & towels and from 1st April 2007 free internet and free wifi will also be included in the rates. You can expect to pay 8 euro per person, per night during the low season and 13 euro per person, per night during the high season if booked in advance via email or via the hostels website. The Heart of the medina Hostel has no lockouts, no curfews and is open 24/7 365 days each year.

• There is a clean youth hostel (Tel: (0)44 7713, Rue Mohammed el-Hansali) near the train station with dorm beds from Dh 45, it has an 11.30 pm curfew, an obligatory wake up call at 8am and a daily daytime lockout. It is fair distance from the action in the heart of the medina. A taxi can cost about 15-20 DH.

• Dorms are also available through Riad Rhaba (see further down) and are reasonably cheap, though the bathrooms can be nasty.

[edit] Riads

The Medina is packed with Riads (old grand houses converted into hotels and inns). While more expensive, these are a wonderful place to stay to get a feel for life in Marrakech.

• Riad Zolah, : 116 Derb El Hammam, Mouassine, : +212-24-38-75-35, : info@riadzolah.com, Website: http://www.riadzolah.com/. As the web site puts it, surely this is among the very best located of Marrakech's new boutique hotels! On the very doorstep of the souks, and less than three minutes' walk from the attractions of Jemaa El Fnaa square lies this chic and cosy riad offering an oasis of quiet calm from the chaos outside. Ismail and his team seem to have achieved the perfect balance between making a relaxed and informal atmosphere, yet providing a slick and professional service with great attention to detail. And as for Fadila's cooking - and the fabulous fresh baked breads at breakfast - why would you want to eat anywhere else? Gorgeous roof terrace, and not one but two candle-lit/petal-strewn courtyard patios (one with plunge pool).

• Riad Zara, : 294 Derb Ben Salek, : +212-24-44-29-40; mobile +212-62-81-70-00, : riad.zara@menara.ma, Website: http://www.riadzara.com/. Friendly and helpful owner Monique and her assistant Hassan. Rooftop terrace with authentic views of real Medina and cozy cane chairs--for lunch, mint tea or just reading a book. Traditional meals like tajine can be served any time of the day. Breakfast is full with jams, amlou, pancakes and mint tea; time can be as flexible as 7am if you need. In the evening, candles are light and guests gather around a small pool in salon in the center of the riad--listening live music by Hassan and enjoying wine. It's still unintrusive if you don't feel like it. If you arrive by car, ask the hosts to help you find your way from parking lot.

• Riad Moulay Tayeb, : 19 Derb Djedid, Laksour - Medina, Website: www.le-maroc.ch. Only 2 minutes from the famous Djemm el Fna with only 3 rooms. It´s absolute quiet, no TV and offers the typic Maroccan interior. The terrace offers a unique view to the Garden of the Pascha Palace. 2 friendly housekeepers (Salah and Fatima Zara) take care for your needs and will help you with every thing you need. You can rent a room (from 70 Euro) to the whole house (one weeks comes for Euro 2000 for up to 6 people). Either you ask a Taxi drive to get you there or contact the Riad over their web page. The peaceful atmosphere will make you dream of truly 1001 nights.

• Riad Tizwa Marrakech, : Dar El Bacha - Medina, : riadtizwam@gmail.com, Website: http://www.riadtizwa.com/. A beautiful traditional Moroccan home or Riad in the heart of the medina (old town). With 5 double bedrooms, this luxury home from home has five staff including English speakers. Great freshly made breakfasts, a car and a driver on hand to whisk you around and a lovely roof terrace on which to relax in this tranquil idyll. Chic Moroccan living with great comfort, luxury and lovely touches like hand made soap, rose petals and a great selection of tasty Moroccan food.

[edit] Discount hotels

The budget conscious will have more luck in the streets and alleyways south of Jema El Fna, which are packed with discount hotels offering singles from Dh 50.

Popular options with backpackers include:

• Hotel Smara, 77 sidi Bouloukat, Tel: +212 24 44 55 68. Near Jema El Efna. Very clean, friendly people, nice rooms. Dh 50 and doubles Dh 80.

• Hotel Essaouira, 3 Derb Sidi Bouloukat, Tel: +212 24 443805, [10]. Has singles with shared bath from Dh 50 and doubles from Dh 90. It's more or less like the others, but it's all painted in the traditional way which gives some charm to it.

• Hotel Central Palace near Jma el-Fna. Rooms around a noisy and echoey central courtyard. Rooms are clean, but the shared toilets are another story - filthy and stinking. Indifferent staff and bitter housekeepers. Rooftop terrace. 100 dh.

• Hotel Imouzzer, 74 Derb Sidi Bouloukate, Tel: +212 24 445366. Near Hotel Essaouira; very friendly and clean and has a pleasant rooftop terrace cafe. Singles / doubles with shared bath are Dh 50 / 100, hot showers Dh 5 and cash-strapped travellers can sleep on the terrace for just Dh 25.

• Hotel Ali, Rue Moulay Ismail, [11]. Offer beds in ensuite, Dorms and rooftop terrace mattresses for 60 Dirham per person, per night (about 6 euro) including cooked breakfasts served with OJ and fresh coffee. Dorm guests can use the internet cafe for 5 Dirhams per hour. They have all the amenities a traveller could ask for, including a laundry service and free internet access for private room guests, money exchange, a terrace restaurant with views of Jema El Efna and even a downstairs hammam. Private rooms are available with a maximum per person price of 250 Dirham per night including breakfast, free internet and a daily traditional Hammam.

• Riad Dar Mimouna, Sidi M'Barek n°151, Sidi Mimoun, tel +212 44 38 40 78, fax +212 44 38 40 79, [12]. A few minutes walk from Place Jemâa El Fna and the Koutoubia Mosque. Breakfast is included and is served at the terrace. There is also a hammam at the terrace, free for use by guests and you would just need to tell them in advance when you would like to use it.

• Riad Kalila, Derb Snane n° 65-66, Tel: +212 24 39 16 82, [13]. Beautifully renovated Riad in the heart of the Medina. Chill in the coolness of the inner patio or soak in the morrocan sun on the upper terrace's lounge chairs. Enjoy views of the snow covered Atlas peaks from the tastefully furnished rooftop terrace. Riad Kalila is located just a short walk from Place Jemâa El Fna, La Koutoubia, and many other must-see sites.

• Riad Rahba, [14]. Offers private, ensuite rooms & a main dorm for backpackers in the heart of the Medina. The Riad combines the traditional Moroccan atmosphere with the comforts of a modern hostel and hotel. The rates include breakfast and it is fast becoming a favorite with backpackers and independant travellers alike. Beds in the main dorm cost around 6 euro in the low season and 10 euro in the high seasons - all including breakfasts. The private ensuite rooms are available from 18 euro per single ensuite room per night.

• Riad Selection, [15]. Offers a selection of a very nice Riad in Morocco.

[edit] Guéliz (also known as Ville Nouvelle)

• Résidance Goumassine, 71 Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni, Tel: (0)44 433086 (Fax: (0)44 4333012). Residence with different kinds of rooms for about 300DH the double room with either kitchen or Moroccan saloon. Don't expect to reduce the price if you stay there many days. It has a small swimming pool and a bar that can serve (quite expensive) breakfasts.

• Villa DAR EL KANOUN, Route de Targa, Tel: +212(0)24 492010 (Fax: +212(0)24 340635), [16]. Luxury B&B villa with swimming pool and garden. It offers 5 comfortable double rooms in a quiet residential area nearby Marrakech downtown. The team there will do everything to make your stay in Marrakech unforgetable. Breakfast is included. Rates begin at 89 €/night (for a double room).

[edit] Stay safe

[edit] Scams

Aside from the usual scams listed on the Morocco page, watch out for tourist touts that offer to take you to the medieval dye pits which, unlike the popular dye pits in Fez, are not worth the visit. Note that the touts work in pairs. The first takes you to the dye pit (which you could probably manage with a map) and then introduces you to his "friend" to guide you round the pits. They both expect to be paid, and are prepared to follow you incessantly for a very long time if you do not give them enough money.

There are often people in Djemma El Fna offering henna tattoos, which are popular with locals and tourists alike. But among the many genuine traders are one or two scam artists. They appear very charming and trustworthy while you choose a design, but will then cleverly divert your attention. Before you know it, you've got the beginnings of a rather poor henna tattoo, and a sudden thought that you haven't agreed on a price yet. The scam artist later demands massive payments, in whatever currency you have (Dirhams or not). After emptying your pockets, if they consider you can afford more, they will demand that you visit a nearby ATM. Always agree a firm price before work starts. If you can't do this, insist that the operator stops immediately - then go to another (hopefully more reliable) operator to get your design completed.

Most Moroccans are tourist-friendly, so sometimes making a fuss in public can generate unwanted attention for a scam artist, and shame them into backing off.

[edit] Get out

In addition to all that the city itself offers, Marrakech can also be used as a base station for various day trips into the High Atlas mountains. The following are a few of possible day-trip destinations.

• Amizmiz - With one of the largest Berber souks in the High Atlas Mountains every Tuesday, Amizmiz is well-worth a morning trip, especially for those travellers wishing to experience the less urban, less touristy mountain towns of the High Atlas.

• Asni - A lovely rural village in the Atlas mountains. Hostel Marrakech provides day trips to this beautiful location.

• Oukaimeden - Oukaïmeden. Ski lift at 3268 m. The snow falls in the mountains just south of Marrakech every winter. And it stays. Wealthy people from all over southern Morocco, have since long learned how to enjoy skiing in their own country, and has given the ski resort Oukaïmeden a distinct Moroccan touch, too. You don't need to bring your ski equipment all the way from home, all you need can be rented, and you should get away with 250 dh paid for a full day here (included a lift pass). And when you stand on the top of the ski lift, 3273 metres above sea level, looking out on sparkling snow, that ends in the fairy tale valley below, remember to stop for a minute or two. You're in subtropical Africa, you know! Oukaïmeden and the areas around are some of the greatest in Morocco, with four seasons, and ever changing nature. In summer, few people enter this area — it is probably too well known for winter sports. But staying here a day or two is a real treat. Enjoying the luscious nature around you, or setting out trekking in the mountains are both excellent possibilities.

WikiPedia:Marrakech