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Goa

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Palolem beach, Goa
Palolem beach, Goa

Goa [1] is a former Portuguese colony, currently a state in India's West region. It is 3700 square kilometres in size and has a human population of approximately 1.4 million. Its east-west mix, beaches and syncretic culture is what attracts an officially-estimated two million visitors each year. Bulk of the visitors are from the rest of India, but the quarter-million from abroad have an influential role to play because of their spending capacity. Among the foreign visitors, and increasingly among a section of young visitors from India, Goa is currently renowned for its electronic music parties and its beaches. From 1510 until 1961 Goa was a Portuguese colony and many aspects of Portuguese culture and architecture can still be found.

Contents

[edit] Districts

Goa is a very small state with only two districts, which are further divided into 11 talukas.

Image:Map-India-Goa01.png

North Goa (Bardez, Bicholim, Pernem, Ponda, Satari, Tiswadi)
The northern talukas.
South Goa (Canacona, Mormugao, Quepem, Salcette, Sanguem)
The southern talukas.









[edit] Cities

  • Panaji (Panjim) – the state capital

[edit] Other destinations

[edit] Understand

The Goan population is a mixture of Hindus and Roman Catholics, the distribution being approximately 60% Hindu and 40% Christian. Despite this, there have been no communal clashes in the past and Goa is regarded as one of the most peaceful states in India.

The best time of the year to visit Goa is mid-November to mid-February.

[edit] Talk

Goa's state language is Konkani. Most Goans speak Konkani, English, Hindi and Marathi. Portuguese is also spoken by some, especially the elite class. Portuguese was the language of the educated-elite in the pre-1961, Portuguese-ruled Goa.

However, different languages tend to be used for different purposes in Goa ... so don't get confused. Konkani is the most widely spoken. English and Marathi tend to be most widely read. (Most newspapers are read in these two languages too.) For primary schooling, education has to be imparted in "local regional languages" (i.e. Konkani or Marathi) to be entitled to receive government grants, on the argument that elementary education is best imparted in the "language of the child". At middle and high-school, and college too, education is almost wholly imparted in English.

Catholics use largerly Konkani for their prayer services, while the language for region is largely Marathi for Hindus. The administration is largely conducted in English, which is also the langauge of publication of the official gazette, and the mainly used tongue in the courts.

It can be rather difficult currently to be able to learn Konkani, with options for learning rather restricted. The language is written in four to five scripts, in and beyond Goa -- Devanagari (the official script), Roman or Romi (widely used in Goa), Kannada-script, Malayalam-script and Perso-Arabic reportedly used by some Muslim communities further south along the Indian west coast.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By bus

There are several bus routes from various cities, but most traffic is from mainly Bombay and Pune, but with increasing demand from the south, there has been an increase in buses and trains from Bangalore and New Delhi.

[edit] By train

Indian Railways connect Goa from Delhi, Mumbai, Ahmedabad, Rajkot, Mangalore, Ernakulam and Thiruvanantapuram (via Bangalore) and all other places in India.The destination station is usually Madgaon in Goa.There is a daily express train service from Delhi.Beware of Pickpockets, people who offer you snacks or Tea and other such people who make trains to Goa a regular hunting ground.

For budget travellers,is the cheapest to travel in India.

[edit] By air

Some airlines fly directly to Dabolim Airport at Goa, but most international flights arrive via Mumbai. As the airport is also used by the military, it only accepts flights during the daytime (until 4 PM or so), which makes eg. sensible weekend escapes from elsewhere in the country effectively impossible. (Note: It seems the problem is partially resolved, because some domestic operators now also have evening flights to Goa, especially during high season)

Goa has daily flights to and from Bangalore, Delhi, Mumbai and Pune (no flights return to Pune) and has flights twice a week to Chennai and Cochin.

Domestic Airlines flying into Goa include Kingfisher airlines, spicejet, Jet Airways, Indian Airlines, Air Deccan, Indigo and GoAir.

There are international flights to Kuwait and UAE twice a week on Air India and charter flights to the United Kingdom, Germany, Russia and Switzerland.

[edit] By sea

[edit] Get around

[edit] Bikes

A lot of tourists rent scooters which are usually Honda Activas, an ungeared scooter which is quite easy to ride. One can also rent a geared motorcycle including the popular Royal Enfield which is very similar to older British motorcycles and is even bought by tourists from the rental company if they plan to stay longer. However make sure you are careful while riding especially if you plan to ride on the highways. The rental company doesn't provide helmets and it is up to you to look for one if you want one. One can get these scooters or motorcycles from garages or from people standing on the road next to these scooters and one can expect to spend between Rs.150 - Rs. 250 a day on a scooter and a little more if one is looking for a geared motorcycle.

[edit] Jeeps

If you aren't comfortable riding in Goa or have a bigger group you can also rent a jeep. These are usually either Mahindras which are similar to Jeep Willys or Maruti Gypys which are the long wheel base version of the Suzuki Samurai. A lot of these jeeps are open without a roof and can really help to enjoy the Goa experience and is a better way to travel around as opposed to a regular sedan. One can expect to pay around Rs. 700 - Rs. 800 a day for these jeeps.

[edit] Bus

You can also use the local buses to travel to different beaches in Goa. Note that these buses are not owned by Goa municipal authorities and as such the fare can vary. A typical bus ride will cost anywhere from 4-6 rupees. Fares are not collected at the bus doors but rather after you after you entered and the bus has begun to move. It is prudent to ask your fellow passengers about the fare and the destination if you are not familiar with the distance or the place.

[edit] See

Goa is world famous for its beaches, its ancient temples and churches, and its Goan carnival

If naval aviation interests you, you might want to stop by the Naval Air Museum. This is behind the Dabolim Airport, and you will need to loop around the airport perimeter across the Dabolim Railway station to get there. There are seven outdoor exhibits and other memorabilia and models in a two story building.

[edit] Beaches

[edit] Do

Since Goa has a large Catholic minority, it has many Catholic holidays besides the Indian national holidays.

One of them, the Carnival though often mistaken for a 'Catholic holiday' is largely a Government sponsered affair of Floats and festivities.

There is a lot to do - for those who like their fun a little laid back

  • Relax at the Beaches. Goa has an almost unbroken 100 km coastline of beaches
  • Visit the venerable Cathedrals of a bygone era at Old Goa, which are still in remarkable good condition where the relic of St. Francis Xavier is.
  • Enjoy the cuisine at a range of restaurants that cater to just about every palate.
  • Check out the several Discos and Pubs that have sprung up around Goa.


Shopping: the charms of Goa

From wines to cashew-nuts, enchanting local music to alternative books and handicrafts, Goa has a lot of it. Goa's handicrafts are clearly under-rated and under-appreciated, even while being reasonably priced. Their range includes carved furniture, brassware, crochet and more (see section on the government-run Aparant emporia).

Global items come in amazing diversity specially at the night markets of North Goa. In Panjim, the 18th June Road is faster emerging as a lure for shoppers and tourists. Mapusa, while hosting a traditional market each Wednesday, attracts a number of tourists, specially foreigners. Goa's talented goldsmiths are neatly located in a line at Mapusa's market, and in parts of Margao and Panjim. Check out traditional Goan lacquerware toys (available at the Aparant emporia).

Every major hotel has its own bookshop, of varying quality. Hotel Mandovi in Panjim packs in a surprising amount of interesting reading material, specially books related to Goa, in its limited space. For the best collection of books related to 'alternative India' and the environment, visit the almost hidden Other India Bookstore. It sits atop the old Mapusa Clinic, at Mapusa's Feira Alta locality. Entrance from the behind. Phone 2263306.

Other prominent bookshops are the old world charm Singbal Bookstall (2425747) near the Panjim Church; Book World at Panjim (2421857), Confidant's Golden Heart Emproium in Margao (2732450), the religious Jeevit Bookshop at Panjim (2438638); Mandovi Square near Cine Nacional (2234241); and Varsha Book Stall (2425832) near the Bank of India and Azad Maidan. The last two focus on newspapers and magazines coming in from the rest of the country and abroad.

One Goan unique product is that of hand-painted ceramics. Check out the Velha Goa Galeria (2426628) and De Goa Ceramics (2420812), both based in Panjim.

Furniture too: Furniture is another area of interest, in terms of shopping options, despite its bulky nature. The Attic in Mapusa (phone 2257743) is of special interest, with some innovative work. It's located at Mapusa, Near Mount Carmel in that north Goa commercial centre's Camarcazana locality. Others offering options in terms of antique furniture include Woodywood Interiors (2228293) and Heirlooms (2224788) in Panjim; Leela Art Palace (2282874) at Calangute; and Goan Arts (3226237) in Margao.

There are also options for cane and designed furniture.

Shopping for medical services: Foreign tourists increasingly go "shopping" for medical services. There are a number of outlets that offer a form of 'health tourism'. These include centres like Dr Pimenta's International Dental Center (www.goadentist.com) at Romano Chambers (near the Old Petrol Pump in Calangute) and Lake Plaza near Nehru Stadium in Margao.

Antiques are also a growing business here. Outlets for antiques and curios incude Prasad Art Centre (2231814) at Panjim; Ages Antiquarts (2410038) and Antiques N Ethinix (9326108677 or 9414129969) at Porvorim; Antiques Gallery (2257743) at Mapusa; Leela Art Palace (2282874) and The Twilight Zone (2279699) at Calangute; Kashmir House (2479072) at Sinquerim; Goa Art Palace (2217844) at Agassaim; Urvi (9370565599_ at Margao; Sanskriti (3236821) at Cavelossim.

For a small place like Goa, being in touch with the 'outside world' plays a crucial role. You never know the riches that travel when products, plants and ideas meet. American and African plants spread in India via Portuguese sea routes.

Grafting techniques came to Goa first in the 16th century, and so did what are today among India's most useful plants. "The Portuguese imported about 300 species of useful plants to India, and Goa was their chief emporium," says microbiologist and environmentalist Dr Nandkumar Kamat. "Before Vasco da Gama, India did not cultivate sweet potatoes, tapioca, tomatoes or pumpkins. Think of it, the potato comes from the Andes mountains of South America. But India produces the largest potato crop in the world today, surpassing Europe." Cashew, chikoo, papaya, tobacco, guavas and pineapples entered India through Goa. Chillies - hard to think of Indian food without them - arrived on Portuguese galleons.

So check out thoroughly what unusual items the local place has in store for you.

Handicrafts: take your pick: Want to shop Goan? One good value-for-money place is the Aparant network of outlets managed by the State-run Goa Handicrafts network. In their ten outlets across Goa you could expect to find an interesting range of handicrafts from Goa. And reasonably priced too.

Items range from shell-work to clay, bamboo, paper maiche, coconut-items and fibre. "If visitors have a problem with carrying back some the (more fragile) handicrafts home, then fibre is a good option. We have a big range. There are more than a thousand items in all," the attendant informs.

Goa Handicrafts is offering training in fields like jute, sheel-work and candlemaking.

"We sell items priced from Rs 5 upwards," says an attendant at the Panjim Residency (formerly the Tourist Hostel) outlet of 'Aparant'. Some items in brass, like traditional lamps, cost upto Rs 7000 to 8000, according to Mr Karapurkar at the Goa Handicrafts head office.

These outlets are, besides four in Panjim, located at Vasco da Gama (on Swatantra Path, at the Vasco Residency) and at the local GTDC-run "residency" hotels in Margao, Mapusa, Calangute, the Bicholim Pottery Production Centre at the Industrial Estate, and at Loutolim's Big Foot.

In Panjim, the other outlets of Aparant are located at the Udyog Bhavan (opposite the Goa Police Headquarter, near the Ferry Jetty); at the main Kadamba bus-terminus; and at the Crafts Complex office of the Goa Handicrafts in Neugi Nagar (Rua de Ourem). The largest number of items are available at the last location, about 2.5 kms off the centre of town.

Most of the Aparant outlets are open between 9.30 or 10 am to 6 or 7 pm, depending on their location.

Products of dry coconuts and coconut-shells are carved and often designed to fit on a wooden base. Items produced here include table lamps, flower pots, table clocks, different religious statues and decorative items.

Cotton thread is transformed in an artistic way with the crochet steel hook, rendering it in beautiful designs and shapes. Likewise, sea-shells that were once discarded by the beach get transformed by artisans. Traditional clay art -- in the form of pots, ash-trays, flower pots, images of gods -- is a skill that has been built up across generations in Goa. Ditto for the case of bamboo products.

A few of these items are produced in-house at the Goa Handicrafts' centre in Bicholim. Others come from artisans across the state. This network has done a fair job in highlighting the skills of geographically-scattered local artisans, and also finding them the market they so-badly need to sustain their rich talent.

Check this site: http://ruralbazargoa.nic.in/welcome.htm

[edit] Museums, art centres

Guess how many museums Goa has?

There's the Goa State Museum and then there's Architect Gerard da Cunha's relatively-new architectural museum called Houses of Goa. The Xavier Centre of Historical Research, at Porvorim, has its Gallery on Christian Art, named the Xavier Xandev Museum.

Then, there's the archaeological museum and portrait gallery at Old Goa, the Christian Art Museum at the same location, and the Pilar Seminary Museum. ("Its history was brought to light by the discovery of ancient artefacts while digging the foundations for the educational institutions and while desilting an old tank within the compound of the present Society of Pilar. All these items collected and mounted in the Pilar Seminary Museum are displayed in relation to the dynasties and the periods passed through the centuries.")

Big Foot at Loutolim (aka Ancestral Goa) is an attempt to illustrate and recreate Goa's traditional past.

You might find it hard to believe, but there's even a vintage-cars collection of sorts -- Ashvek Vintage World "dedicated to restore and preserve motoring and motorcycling gems of historical interest in Goa". You can find cars ranging from ye old Mercedes Benz, to the Peugeot, Morris, Chevrolet and the Volkswagen. Check it out at Nuvem, on permanent display. Entry Rs 50.

Then, there's the religious Museum of Blessed Joseph Vaz and the Naval Aviation Museum. In the latter, you can see and touch vintage aircrafts like the Sealands, Doves, Alizes, Seahawks, Vampires and Huges Helicopters.

Other venues listed Art Chamber at Calangute, the Kerkar Art Complex and more. Dr Subodh Kerkar has two galleries, one for his permanent collection, and the other housing the works of Indian and foreign artists. The open air auditorium puts up performances in Indian classical music and dance.

Then, there's the Goa-government run Kala Academy and the Portuguese-run Fundacao Oriente in India, the Central Library (even tourists can become temporary members).

Art galleries in Goa include Gallery Gitanjali (run by Ajit Sukhija in a building that once was the People's High School at Panjim's latin quarter of Fontainhas), Galeria Cidade at the Cidade de Goa luxury resort, Peace Cottage Fine Art Gallery perched between two luxury hotels at Betalbatim, Gallery Boa Arte opposite the Municipal Garden in Panjim, Picturesque opposite the Goa Urban Cooperative Bank also in Panjim, and Gallery Yemania in Verem.

Don't forget the Sound and Light Gallery Museum at Old Goa, where one can get a Christian religious tour, artistically done. Finally, the Goa Science Centre, at a scenic location along Miramar Beach, is a great fun-place for kids specially, but not only. Entrance is Rs 10 (and less for students). There's also a movie theatre showing 3D science-related films.

[edit] Eat

[edit] Food

The Goan staple diet consists of rice and fish curry along with pickles and fried fish. This can be found on many of the beach shacks. The Goan cuisine is a blend of Portuguese and local flavours. Many dishes such as prawn balchao and Kingfish in Garlic have distinct Portuguese flavour.

Dishes such as Vindaloo and Xacuti (pronounced Cha'cuti) will be familiar from Indian restaurant menus, and are originally Goan dishes.

[edit] Places to eat

  • Brito's, Baga - Known for its Mix meat platter, this place serves continental cuisines, The deserts offered are to die for.
  • Montego Bay Goa (Morjim)- full fledged restaurant serving Continental, Indian, Seafood and the local Goan Cuisine[2]
  • Cavala, Baga - Beautiful authentic Goan food in a charming setting. Also great entertainment is often featured!
  • Bella Ciao The Italian Restaurant at La Calypso Hotels, Saunta Vaddo, Calangute Baga road, Baga, Goa - 403516 - Phone: 0832 2275821 Italian
  • O'Coqueiro
  • Mirabai Goan Village, off Baga Road, Calangute. Phone: 98 22176808- The best! Authentic Goan food, excellent sea food, charming knowledgeable owner
  • Souza Lobo - Calangute (Its on the beach, you won't miss it)- King Fish and Seafood are excellent
  • Hotel Mandovi
  • Casa Andre's, Calangute
  • Martin's Corner, Betalbatim
  • Casa Portuguese, Baga
  • J & A's, Arpora
  • Waves, Calangute
  • Mooncrest on the road to Baga beach
  • Tibetan Kitchen, Calangute - sizzling garlic prawn platter to die for.
  • La Resturaunt- Baga Road - French cuisine at its best
  • Stone House, Candolim - garden bar and rest - great cooking lovely atmosphere
  • Caji's Place, Colva- known for its fresh and spectacular Prawn Curry.
  • Dominos Pizza, Margao 0832-2713888, 2713660-61 Shop No.11-12, Durga Apartments,Louis Miranda Road , Near Saaj Hotel , Margao - 403601
  • Tato's in Margao and Panjim for good Pau Bhaji.
  • Bob's Inn on the main road from Calangute to Candolim.

Most beaches have shacks that serve surprisingly delicious meals, specially sea-food and they'll usually consult you to see how you like your food. Don't miss the shack eating experience. You'll want to go back and do it again. Most fancy hotels and restaurants serve terrible foods, it is best to eat at local places, ask a taxi driver where these would be and don't let him take you to any fancy restaurants as they receive commission. For a taste of the local flavour with clean facilities but low prices go to Caji's Place, Colva.

[edit] Value for money eateries

SOMEHOW only the big and luxury names seem to ever get written about in Goa. Probably it has something to do with their long reach, persistence and the fact that they simply have a bigger budget for doing PR.

But if you're looking for taste, and not ambience, here's where you could seek. Caution -- some of these places are really rough, though tasty:

  • AFLATOON 'HOTEL', near the masjid alongside Alankar cinema in Mapusa. Be prepared to share tables with the scruffiest of characters and dig into tasty mutton biryani (Rs 40), beef biryani (Rs 20), soft parathas (Rs 5), seekh kababs (Rs 10) and the rest...This is Muslim-style food.
  • GOAN-NONVEG fast-food joints (they run out of adapted handcarts) at Santa Cruz (near the church) and Miramar (adjoining Clube Gaspar Dias). Meat-based sandwitches for Rs 10, tasty and easy-to-carry. (Couldn't we learn to use less plastic though?) Real home-style food at down-to-earth prices. No wonder one outlet at Miramar sells 800 bread a day! You can also get similarly delicious Goan cooking at the roadside in Agaciam (just before the bridge) or sausages ('choris-pao') at the Agaciam market.
  • AJANTA, near the Old Panjim Bus Stand, just before you new bridge over the Pato creek. Typical Pernem-style Goan food. Simple, tasty fish-curry-rice. Spicy too. A favourite when we worked nearby, when riceplates were Rs 5 in the mid-eighties. We journos had this joke about writing a book 'How To Get The Most For Rs 5 At Ajanta'. Now, the standard meal costs Rs 20-25. The special dishes (chicken, occasionally crab) are fiery hot and spicy.
  • ALISHA, opposite the new Goa legislative assembly. Both these above come from the cuisine of Hindu Goa (there are some variants among this too, depending on region, class and caste).
  • SAROVAR. What can you get for Rs 25? Two parathas, butter-milk, three curries, curd, rice, a sweetdish, pickle... Naturally crowded in the afternoons. Even more naturally, the waiters can be quite friendly since at this value-for-money it hardly hurts to give a five rupee tip (great by local standards) each time!
  • GENERALLY, almost every Udupi or 'Kamat' restaurant in the state. This cuisine finds its origin outside Goa's borders, along the south Karnataka coast. But, what the heck, the food maintains its standards and taste, that even some among the local Christian population (who's diet is or has been actually non-vegetarian) have developed a taste for this. Standard meals average Rs 20-30.
  • THE LONE 'shack' (at the time of writing, 2003) on Siridao beach. This fishing village is tucked away off the Panjim-Margao highway, just before the Agaciam-Cortalim bridge. Fish dishes, it's speciality naturally.
  • 'HOTEL MANGALORE', by the roadside about a kilometre away from Canacona's main tiny town, Chaudi. Don't get misled by the term 'hotel', this is a roadside eatery. It's close to Char Rasta, literally, Four Roads, the point where they meet. Not to be confused with another restaurant of the same name, that lies closer to the petrol pump. The 2002-end prices were pegged at 'deluxe fish c. rice' (the 'c' is for curry) at Rs 80, a semi-deluxe version for half that price, and a 'local' equivalent for one-fourth. Obviously chicken is its specialty.
  • CHECK THE fish preparations of the restaurant that's under the bridge at the Cortalim end. Traditional Catholic Goan style, good value for money.
  • CAFE PRAKASH, a tiny hole-in-the-wall in Panjim. Near the Azad Maidan close to the ferry jetty. Nothing exceptional here, except that some of us local journalists consider it to be the "unofficial" press club of Goa each evening (lots of gossip!) and you could dwadle over a cup of tea (Rs 3) for three hours. No questions asked!

After circulating this short-list to a Internet-based mailing-list for journalists in Goa (called Goajourno), a whole lot of other suggestions came in. It would perhaps be unfair to overlook the favourite watering holes and eating places of a number of well-travelled scribes from the state.

Reporter Mayabhushan Nagvenkar votes in favour of the oyster-masala at Devata Cafe in Ribandar. Nadia V Menezes, an ex-Herald staffer now in Mumbai, has her own entry for Number 11: "A home-cum-restaurant just behind Kamat Restaurant (towards the old railway station) in Margao that serves simply delicious, very coconutty-n-spicy fish curry rice." She's adds that some time back a 'fish thali' used to go for Rs 15.

Vidya Heble, ex-Gomantak Times and now in Singapore, recommends Anandasharam, located in the easy-to-get-lost-in lanes to the west of the General Post Office. It's opposite Venite. She calls it a "no-frills, no-pretences eatery ... (run by an elderly gent whom we called Kaka, or Uncle, and who's) smile is still as welcoming and the fish still as delicious". Naturally, you get better food in the afternoons, rather than nights when business is slack in this government servant-dominated town.

Vidya mentions another great family-run place for fried prawns at the Nerul Tinto, in Bardez.

Rash Deep, opposite the Land Survey Department, is a place for inexpensive fish-curry-rice was also a journalists' favourite in the past.

Indian Express's former man-in-Goa Shiv Kumar had this to say: "Ask me guys! I was scrounging around for some good value-for-money places in Panjim for two years! My short list is tilted heavily in favor of seafood!"

"Ajanta is great. Could never have enough of the crabs and shellfish though one had to go early in the afternoon. There is a tiny place next to Sher-e-Panjab, Panjim (I think its called Excelsior or some fancy name) lots and lots of fish freshly fried. One nameless shack a little down the Times of India on the slope to Altinho almost near the market -- great fresh coconut prawns curry and lots of fresh fish. For some reason, it's the best place where the fresh fish goes best with the beer!"

Of course, there's a caveat: keep an eye closed with regard to the hygiene. That holds for many of these places.

Shiv also says he chanced upon a home-cum-restaurant in Cuncolim "where on some mornings they make you wait while the owner rushes to the market to get some fish!" Another is a hole in the wall joint in St Inez that served lovely home made food. But take care, for as Shiv says, not long back another journo in Goa "called up from Goa to tell me the 'kokum' in the 'sol kadi' turned out to be a big fat cockroach!"

Margao's Kamat Hotel has some good 'puri bhaji'. Shiv's other favourites include the Khansamah at the Mollem forest guest house, which prepares "some lovely fish, chicken and mutton for guests".

Another place opposite the Panjim mosque is Ghazali. "Lots of seating and the food is home cooked. Again I know only about the seafood there. One time I opened my wallet a bit, i found huge pomfret still cold from the freezer at the core. But then in Goan restaurants one should buy only the moderately priced stuff that go quickly off the shelf," says Shiv.

Via the Internet came a hint from Lawrence, who mentions Cafe Firdaus at the Juma Masjid Road near Margao's old railway station. "It's a hole in the wall joint, scruffy characters et al. The egg masala fry, kheema fry, and parathas are superb. Rates almost half that of Aflatoon," claims Lawrence.

Can it be?

Says Mayabhushan: "It is a cardinal sin for a journalist (tee-totalers included) to miss out Abel's Best In The World opposite the Gomantak office at St Inez. Some of the finest grub. A limited menu and food which says eat me. Guy called Ryan (Peter's son) runs it. Food... food... at night. Peter's it has to be."

Other journalists too remember Peter's. Says Vidya: "I don't think any of the old-timers (among journos) need to be told about Peter's! I don't think I would go there now that the late Peter isn't around to say 'Saba!' at the door and assure us that the chicken is 'best in the world today!' -- those were indeed the days and they really will not return. Sad feeling."

Inacio Oliveira, earlier with Gomantak Times, tells of Bappa's Sukhi Bhaji Pao at Merces that is "so special that even people from neighbouring villages especilally visit the place".

Swapna Sardessai, one of the members of the founding team of Gomantak Times' Weekender, says: "There's this 'gaddo' outside GMC that comes alive after 8 pm. The food is Chinese and simply too good. Stays open way past midnight."

Alisha, mentioned above and opposite the new Secretariat Complex, serves great garlic naans, rawa fried 'chonak' fish and the 'tisreo' seafood and is open till late. "On afternoons, the fish-curry rice is a treat. The view is refreshing here. One gets to see a side of Panjim not visible from anyplace else," says ex-journalist Swapna.

Coco Chin at St. Cruz 'bundh' overlooks green fields on all sides and serves a great starter called chilli garlic potato. The rest of the Chinese grub served here is good too.

One day, sitting at the Cafe Prakash -- our journalists' unofficial press club -- we discussed various options. Like Marietta, for homely Catholic non-veg food (the proprietor would translate your bill into paise, giving the uninitiated a mild heart attack -- 3300 instead of Rs 33!). Or Uday Upahargraha (below PTI, next to Navhind Times in the Panjim market area) for its delicious prawn biryani. Bharat Lunch Home next to Ajanta is known for its ginger soda.

Want something ultra cheap? Try Public Cafe, near Don Bosco's in Panjim. Bhaji and parathas for Rs 7, and tea for Rs 2! Anything to beat that?

The KTC Bus Stand in Panjim has a Keralite called Babu selling white 'bhajjas', tomato omlette and onion pakodas. Allegro in Panjim and Anand in the building somewhat grandiloquently renamed as 'Pudhari Bhavan' (it's home to that newspaper's office) is also known for its Goan food and paraboiled rice. Check out the 'kalva bhaji' at the restaurant near the Four Pillars. At Bainguinim, on the way to Old Goa, Pritam is supposed to be even better than STAR, both know for their Hindu styled tasty Goan fish.

For parathas try Everest at the old Cine El Dorado building. Daniel Fraguso near the Taleigao's Church has had a reputation for home and party cooking. Kumer, next to Alisha's, run by the kin of ex-MLA Babuso Gaonkar, is also appreciated for its food. Taj next to Kalpatru offers special limbu soda, big 'battatawadas' and mutton 'samosas'. Karishma is an interesting Muslim-run outlet near Margao's old railway gate. Don't miss Fernando's at Raia and Siddhi's Sukhi Bhaji-Usal.

Journalist Rahul Goswami says: "Anandashram in Fontainhas is spot on. Unique and, more important, consistent over the years. The bangda and 'humman' curry remains a favourite, and washed down with the katori of kokum makes an excellent meal. And yes 'kaka' has a good memory and a ready smile. The place Vidya mentioned in Nerul is called Laxmi, and is just off what I suppose you could call the Nerul tinto, along the lane that leads to what I believe is now called Coco Beach. That little restaurant is absolutely the 'sungte' capital of Bardez - no question about it. And the standard 'jevonn' is pretty good too, with excellent portions"

For good-sized prawns (optimistically called tiger prawns, but reasonably large nevertheless) and mussels, Rahul Goswami commented that he found Sea View worth a visit. It used to live in the back of a house, right out on the waterline before the beginning of the Dona Paula slope as you come in from Caranzalem. I wonder though whether it is still there.

Much further south, along the road to Mobor but before hitting the line of resorts, there used to be a household that prepared great buckets of staple jevonn for taxi drivers. Like Anandashram, this was Hindu Goan cooking, and like Laxmi, the portions would keep you fuelled through the rest of the day if you got there early enough to occupy one of the half-dozen chairs. It was a house with no name and in those days - now this is circa 1995 - they threw in a glass of nimbu-paani.

In Margao, Longuinhos used to be very good for savouries and snacks - just right if one was feeling peckish but wanted to avoid a multiple-curry meal that would knock one out for the rest of the afternoon. Service was pretty good and they seemed to be partial to old Lorna cassettes. Also in Salcete was Martins of Betalbatim - first-rate kingfish and when the season came round, 'jumping chicken', and those who know will know. I think towards the late 90s Martins tended to get needlessly upmarket with its prices, but the food was still good.

As Rahul Goswami points out: The biggest loss is Olympic, right in the middle of Panjim, opposite the Captain of Ports jetty and next to the Customs House. This was the home of the original sausage pulao, and the beef croquettes and potato chops were second to none. Sadly, the premises has long since been given over to someone who sells bathroom tiles.


Before ending, one must issue a statutory warning. These places are best visited during peak hours, which usually means lunch-time. Reach there at 9 pm, and what could be a good (read tasty and crowded) eating-out place in the afternoon could become a lousy place by evening, serving cold and tasteless food as the clientel dwindles.

This listing has obviously missed out on a number of other worthy places which do deserve a listing. Other candidates include the elderly man at the Parra market, selling Goan fast food (boiled eggs, boiled peanuts, etc)... The bias favouring Bardez and places around Panjim does show due to geographical reasons. Your suggestions and tips for enhancing this listing are more than welcome.[Note some of the prices in this section need updating, as this article was written 3-4 years ago.]

[edit] Drink

Alcoholic Beverages The popular alcoholic beverages in Goa are Beer and Wine. There is also the local liquor, Fenny, which is quite potent and strong. It comes in 2 flavours, Cashewnut and Coconut.


Popular Bars

  • Montego Bay Goa, Beach shack on Morjim Beach, Ph: +91 98221 50847[3]. Open till midnight.
  • Zanzibar, beach shack on Baga. Early till midnight
  • The Alcove, overlooking Ozran Vagator Beach - Also good place to eat (Open Till Midnight)
  • Tito's, Baga Beach. A popular night club in goa (Open Till 10.00 pm)
  • Shores Bar, Anjuna Beach. Open Till 11PM.

Club Cubana(Arpora) - A night at the Playboy Mansion! This decadent mansion perched on the top of a hill looks over Anjuna and the sea and sports a huge pool, 4 bars, indoor dance floor, a pizza bar and four poster beds scattered around the place. Pay anywhere from 500 - 1000 Rupee for a couple entry (stag entry is not allowed) and pay no more for the rest of the night. Club Cubana has an open bar happening all night, unlimited beer, wine, sparkling and basic spirits are available to you all night! Enjoy the party!

[edit] Goa/Psy Trance

  • 9-Bar - Fantastic location nestled on the cliffs of Vagator beach. Things get going from around 6pm and close about 10pm. This is the place to go to find out about whats hot after 10pm.
  • Prim Rose - This is a small bar and restaurant in Little Vagator. Once the road to Vagator is taken (the first right from Anjuna) you are on the way to this psychedelic haven (ask the locals to take the crucial left from the main road). The place consists of a closed wall wherein the two story restaurant is located. To the other side of the road a few snooker tables are placed within a closed area. The roof of the ground floor is adorned with weird psychedelic graffiti in pretty abstract colours. The upper story houses a huge plasma TV and some more snooker tables. Life starts here after 10 in the evening when a huge section of Goa's foreign trippers and junkies get here to have a good time. Good food and wine is served (albeit a bit costly according to Indian standards, but considering the absolutely great music they play and the ambiance, it's worth it).
  • Hilltop
  • Bamboo Forest
  • Paradiso
  • DiscoValley
  • Dolce Vita
  • There are many outdoor raves/doofs/parties during the peak season ie December - March

[edit] Sleep

A lot of great places to stay at, but more often than not, you will find that all your searches result in websites that do your travel/accommodation bookings. While this is good, it can leave a holiday maker frustrated. In this section, we will add direct contacts of hotels, resorts etc., so that one can choose to use travel agents and/or call/email directly.

Apart from alcohol, which is very cheap, Goa is one of the more expensive states in India to stay. Though for a foreign tourist it is still very cheap. Peak season, which is from November to late March the prices are very high. Especially in December, 5 star hotel rates rates range from around Rs.20,000 - Rs.35,000 per night some rates go even higher. All touristic places charge more in the season.

[edit] Budget

  • Captain Lobos Beach resort
  • Montego Bay Goa [4].
  • Sussegado Nature Retreat, [5]. Cottages on a working eco spice farm in Goa's green hinterland - a place to relax away from the bustle of the beaches with a picturesque river and a good starting point for trips to Dudh Sagar waterfalls, the Tambdi Surla temple and Hampi.

[edit] Mid-range

Many ancestral homes are being renovated to include full-facility guest accommodation, with/without authentic Goan meals, located in scenic, quiet and relaxed villages, all within easy reach of Cities and Beaches:

North Goa

  • Cavala Seaside Resort - Baga
  • Montego Bay Goa Beach Villa, [6] Vithaldas Waddo,Morjim,Pernem, Tel: (+91)-09822150847 (Mobile) Email: info@montegobaygoa.com.
  • Hotel Golden Nest, Calangute, Tel: +91 - 9822147148, E-mail: lobogoldennest@yahoo.co.in.

South Goa

  • Garca Branca Hse.#934 on Hwy.17B, Loutulim, Salcette, Tel: (+91)-(0832) 277 7064, [7]. Rs.200-250 daily for renting a scooter (plus fuel), food at shaks is 125 rs to 150 rs per head

[edit] Splurge

There are plenty of star hotels in Goa. So, depending on the location, take your pick .

North Goa

  • Blue Beach Resort Goa, [8]
  • Marie Lou Goa, [9]
  • Phoenix Park Inn, [10]
  • Taj Fort Aguada, [11]
  • Taj Hermitage, [12]
  • Taj Holiday Village, [13]

Central Goa

  • Cidade de Goa, [14]
  • The Majestic, [15] - 5 Star
  • Bambolim Beach Resort, [16] - 3 Star
  • The Menino Regency, [17] - 2 Star
  • / Marriott, [18]
  • Vainguinim Valley Resort, [19]

South Goa

  • Varca Palms Beach Resort, [20]
  • The Oceanique Resort, [21]
  • Club Mahindra, [22]
  • Goa Renaissance
  • Holiday Inn, [23]
  • Intercontinental, the Grand, [24]
  • Kenilworth Beach Resort, [25]
  • Majorda Beach Resort, [26]
  • Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa, [27]
  • Radisson White Sands, [28]
  • Taj Exotica, [29]
  • The Leela, [30] (5 star Luxury hotel)

[edit] Contact

[edit] Landlines

[edit] Mobile Phones

It is very easy to get a Prepaid mobile, which is very cheap to get and for calls too. A Photo ID proof and photograph for prepaid as well as postpaid connection is required.

  • !DEA[31] - GSM
  • Airtel[32] - GSM
  • Hutch[33] (formerly owned by BPL Mobile[34]) - GSM
  • BSNL-Cell One - GSM
  • Reliance Mobile[35] - CDMA
  • Tata Indicom[36] - CDMA

[edit] Internet

Internet Cafes can be found at tourist spots and hotels. It is not difficult to find a Internet center.


Below is a list of Sify Iway.com cybercafes in Goa.

Iway.com- GOA Locator Franchisee Name Franchisee Address Pincode Contact Number

  • YESHWANT ANANT KAMAT TARCAR Ground Floor,John Paul Building 403001 2426537
  • E-COM SYNERGIES G-Z UNITECH CITY CENTER 403001 5641305
  • MAGSONS NETWORK (P) LTD 2 GROUND FLOOR, MAGANLAL SADAN,DADA VAIDYA ROAD,PANJIM, GOA, 403001 12345
  • M.G.M International Travels Simplex Chambers, UmtavaddoCalangute 403001 2225166
  • M/S sharp Shooters.Net Opp: Maruthi True ValueD.B.Marg, Miramar 403001 0
  • Magsons Network (P) Ltd 707, DB Marg 403012 2463700
  • Jude C.D. Lima Shop No.8, Tivim Parish CentreTivim 403502 3100942
  • Tape Rollers Cyber Cafe G-1, Jelaza Apartments.Opp Muslim Masjid, Angod, Mapusa, Goa 403507 2263911
  • Mark Anthony Cybernet (P) Ltd. Shop No. 4, Sajjangad, DattawadiMapusa 403507 2276184
  • Anilo Fernades GARDEN CENTER PHASE II, SHOP NO 15,OPP MAPUSA POLICE STATION, MAPUSA, GOA 403507 12345678
  • Sabino Enterprises Baskin Robbins,Shop No.1,Braganza houseOpp Mapusa Bus Stand,Bardez 403507 2265758
  • Lizlon Enterprises Shop No.186, Municipal MarketMapusa 403507 2256096
  • Edlyn Infotech House No.73/10, KhorlimMapusa 403507 2262616
  • Manali Online House No.687/2, Anjuna, Goa. 403509 2274421
  • BAKE N BYTE G1, Laxmi Apartments 403515 2281504
  • Nitesh Govekar Shop no.1, Manum Beach ResortsNear Health Centre, Candolim, Bardez 403515 2281318
  • Puja Cyber Space Shopno.6, Nr.Lawande Super Market Prazeres Rendezvous, Candolim, Bardez 403515 2277300
  • Netxcess ShopNo.1, Sunshine Complex,Baga Road,Cal 403516 2282442
  • Newtons Supermarket Kamat Holiday Homes III, Gaura Vaddo,Cal 403516 2275858
  • Netxcess 2 Bensons Complex 403516 666666
  • DEMETRIOS LOBO OPP FOOTBALL GROUNDUMTAVADDO, CALANGUTE, BARDEZ,GOA 403516 2275807
  • Surfeers Aimita-III, Shop No.4,Naika Wadoo,Calangute, Goa 403516 3119522
  • Kool Dude Cyber Cafe H.No.860/3, Alto Porvorim, Bardez 403521 2415502
  • Shaileshdotcom Shop No.14, New Housing Board Market Com 403521 2412376
  • Arte D Ouro Cell World Nova Cidade Building Complex,S-1, Porvorim 403521 2276790
  • Cyber Inn Shop No.5, Kalika Chambers,Varde Valaulikar Raod 403601 2733232
  • Terrance Pimenta Shop no. 12, Felicinta ApartmentsNear Big Foot Traffic Island Gogol 403601 0
  • Tokina Cybercafe Damodar Building, Near Police Station, Above Central Bank, Margao 403601 0
  • ANTONIO JOSE D COSTA F11, REGENCY PLAZA,NEAR LML SHOWROOM, COMBA, Margao 403601 147258
  • Sarah Cafe St. Anthony Complex Shop PG.11, Aquem, Margoa 403601 2703034
  • I Browse Rosary Commercial Arcade, Shop no. 15,16Next to Panchayat, Navelim, Salcette, Goa 403707 2765610
  • World Linkers 4th Ward, House no.405Colva Salcete 403708 2788056
  • Cyber Magic Colva Beach ResortColva, Salcetta, Goa 403708 2788130
  • Delu Cafe Isabel ClassicAlleamvaddo, Chinchinim 403715 2775327
  • New Horizons 1595, Beach Road, Vuzavaddo,Benaulim Goa 403716 0
  • G.K. Tourist Centre House No.1596, VasvaddoBenaulim, Salcete 403716 2771608
  • National Bakery - 2 5, Da Salva Chambers, Swatantra Path,Opp Hotel Lapaz, Vasco Da Gama,Goa 403802 0
  • National Bakery House No.5/20Feira Alto, Altinho, Mapusa 430507 2264021

[Please check before visiting any of the places on the list above; such information tends to change frequently.]

[edit] Stay safe

Goa is a generally safe state, but as with any tourism dependent economy, it has its fair share of petty crime and touts.

Please remember these important points when you are visiting Goa:

  • Avoid sex with strangers, as there is always a risk of AIDS.
  • Do not indulge in drugs, as police in Goa, are very strict and cannot be easily bribed.
  • Be Careful when wading at the beach as undercurrents can be very strong, many tourists lives have been lost to the seas.
  • Goans are very friendly and helpful, should you have any problems talk to the the nearest Goan shop, restaurant or bystander.
  • Travel guides can be expensive and have been known to dupe foreign visitors. Try your hand at travelling alone, buy a map and hire a taxi or rent a bike.
  • Temperatures in Winter and Summer can be extreme, do not forget sunscreen.
  • Beware of hawkers who always mark up their goods, up to 300%.
  • Also beware the 'ear doctors' who are more likely to accost men than women and 'produce' some tiny revolting creature, supposedly from your ear, for which they then offer a 'cure'

[edit] Useful maps

[edit] Get out

WikiPedia:Goa (state)

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