Essaouira

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Sea Walls

Essaouria (الصويرة) is a coastal city in Morocco.

[edit] Get in

• A whole grand taxi from Marrakech runs about 600dh - 800dh, or 90dh per place if you take taxi Blue.
• Supratours runs buses from the Marrakech train station into the Essaouira Supratours station, just down the street from the beach.
• Catch a CTM bus from Marrakech's bus station (or the CTM Offices in the Gueliz, on Zerktouni street) for 65dh (plus 5dh per stowed luggage). The trip takes 3.5 hours. There is no toilet on the bus, but it does make one local stop mid-journey, where there are toilets. Book you tickets from the CTM Offices the day before as they do sell out fast.

[edit] Get around

The walled centre of town is pedestrianised.

[edit] See

[edit] Do

• The beach dominates the Essaouirans' leisure time. Although the strong wind and currents makes relaxed tanning and swimming a little difficult at times, it is perfect for windsurfing. With good winds for most days of the year, Essaouira is a windsurfer's paradise. The best spots are reported to be Essaouira Bay, Sidi Kaouki, Cape Sim and Mouley Bouzertoune. Equipment can be hired from the Windsurfing Club on the beach front.

• World Music Festival in June : http://www.festival-gnaoua.co.ma/

• The nearby town of Diabat and its beach is allegedly where Jimi Hendrix once spent some time. Even if the stories aren't true, this long, windswept beach with its ruined fort, about 5km from Essaouira, is a lovely place to walk to. Diabat is an empty, concrete Berber village that is practically devoid of attractions except the Hendrix ruin and a Hendrix Cafe. It's best visted in the early morning via taxi and then return to Essouiara via a short and very romantic walk on the beach past the castle in the sand of Hendrix fame.

[edit] Buy

Essaouira's craftsmen are renowned for their woodwork and lacquerware. Intricately inlaid boxes, chessboards and curios can be found for good prices in the city's hundreds of shops; however, beware that extensive deforestation is taking place in the area due to these woods not being replanted. Artwork of all kinds can be had here.

[edit] Eat

Although Essaouira is on the sea, fish are quite expensive. Fishermen sell their catch through market hall and you can get it cooked in small stands nearby. Prices are clearly marked per weight on the large pricing board at the end of the fish market stalls, but this seems to make little difference to the chances of being hustled. Carefully evaluate how much you are being charged. A cheaper option is to buy Harira (a spicy soup) for 2-5DH or sandwich (i.e. at Blue fasade for 10-20DH, walking at the street from fish stands to the medina). There are many reasonable restaurants and cafes on the main streets and squares. Upscale restaurants worth a mention are Taros (2, rue de la Sqala Tel: 044 47 64 07) which combines a French-Moroccan restaurant, a gallery and a terrace bar with live local music and "5" (rue Youssef el fassi) for its elegant ex-pat vibe.

• Patisserie Driss - close to the main square is a great place for cakes and snacks
• Fish Market, : Essaouira local market. . If you are a fish enthusiast, you cannot miss the food in the market. Buy your fish (cheap, shirmps are 50dh/kilo, sardines 5dh/6, etc) take it to the small kitchen / restaurant and let them cook it for you. They add salad, olives and bread for 25dh. Really fun, cheap and good food! (The food here is NOT cheap - see cautionary tale above) buy the fish + 25dh for the baking
• La decouverte, : 8 bis, rue Houmman, : 024 47 31 58, Website: http://www.essaouira-ladecouverte.com. If you are tired of tagines, dissapointed by italian-moroccan pasta, give La Decouverte a try. A french couple cooks with moroccan ingredients, moroccan like recipes but with french hand. Nice atmosphere, correct prices. Go for it mains 50dh - 80dh

[edit] Drink

Mint tea is available for about 6DH all over the town. Some of the hotels have licensed bars, but it's hard to beat the terrace bar of the Taros (2 Rue de la Sqala) for its view over the lively Place Moulay el Hassan and the harbour.

[edit] Sleep

[edit] Hotels and riads

• Essaouira Tourisme, http://www.essaouiratourisme.com the best guide ever of the great essaouira mogador, the best hotels and riads and apartments.

• Hotel Smara, 26 Rue de la Skala, Tel: 044-472334, is one of the cheapest (and therefore most popular) hotels in town, so you may need to book ahead during peak season. The spartan roof terrace has nice views over the cannons used in the opening sequence of Orson Welles Othello. Singles / doubles with shared bath start from Dh 47 / Dh 96.

• Riad Malaika, 17 Rue Zayanne, Tel: 044.473861, Email: riadmalaika@yahoo.fr, provides an authentic Riad stay. This former Moroccan home has been beautifully restored and converted and is in the center of town. The staff is extremely hospitable and courteous. It has a beautiful terrace rooftop perfect for private lounging. Rooms are charming and tastefully decorated and run from 500dh to 1000dh, including breakfast (discounts available in the low season and for longer stays).

• Sofitel Thalassa Mogador, Tel: 47 23 34. Right on the beach, it will be happy to indulge your every whim, for a hefty price. Singles / doubles start at Dh 1400 / Dh 1850 during low season but can rocket up to Dh 1890 / Dh 2430 during the peak new year period. Luxury suites are also available and there's a Sofitel-branded health spa next door for those in urgent need of a hydrotherapy session and facial.

• If arriving by bus, Burka clad women will surround you as you exit offering discount Riads or accommodation in their homes for as little as 150dnr, though you will not get a view of the ocean for this. There are many hotel options available so feel free to bypass them. You can always return to the bus station and they will still be there.

[edit] Apartments

If you're looking for longer term or apartment accommodation, try:

• Essaouira Apartments, (http://www.essaouira.com/apartment/apartments/index.htm); Jack's Kiosk, 1 Place Moulay Hassan, Tel: 044-475538 (Fax: 044-476901, Email: apartment@essaouira.com)
• Chez Rebecca Apartment (http://location.essaouira-voyage.com; email: location@essaouira-voyage.com) Short and long term rentals. Located in the heart of the medina, its got a lovely terrace with views over the town. Other holiday apartments for rent are also available in the same house.

[edit] Stay Safe

Many travellers seem to suffer from minor stomach upsets in Essaouira, no matter how carefully they eat. The town is often covered in a fine mist as Atlantic breakers crash onto the rocks below the ramparts. Closer inspection reveals a large amount of untreated sewage being discharged into the sea here. Possibly this sewage in the air is a factor amongst the high incidence of stomach upsets.

[edit] Get out