Bishkek

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'Bishkek(Бишкек, بىشكهك) (population in 2005 approx. 900,000) is the capital and the largest city of the Kyrgyz Republic (Kyrgyzstan).

WARNING: Bishkek is currently experiencing political instability, therefore, travelers should be aware of events and be prepared to alter their travel plans, if necessary. No foreigners have been targeted or victimized as part of the recent coup and demonstrations. It is recommended to avoid being near demonstrations.

[edit] Understand

The central square of Bishkek, Ala-Too square

Bishkek is the capital of the Kyrgyz Republic and sits in the Tien Shan mountain range in the Chui Valley. It is a relatively new city and has limited historical sites, but it makes a great place to start your trips to the mountains and alpine lakes of the Tien Shans. Bishkek is, however, an interesting example of a planned city; laid on a grid with wide boulevards flanked by irrigation canals and large trees, buildings with marble facades, and Soviet apartment complexes. Many young travelers find Bishkek's nightlife a delight and the people are friendly and very hospitable. Bishkek is a city of many young people that hang out in parks or small cafes. Kyrgyzstan has the most liberal tourist visa regime in Central Asia, so it makes a great place to start your tour of the silk road and collect your visas to neighboring countries.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Bishkek's Manas International Airport (IATA: FRU) [1] is a 40 minute drive from the city center. Most of the international flights depart and arrive at very early hours of the morning.

The following airlines operate to/from Bishkek:

• Aeroflot - Moscow-Sheremetyevo (5 hour flight, Airbus 320)
• Air Astana - Almaty
• Avia Traffic Company - Almaty, Dushanbe, Isfana, Jalal-Abad, Novosibirsk, Osh, Tashkent
• bmi operated by Astraeus - London-Heathrow (11 hour flight 4x/week)
• China Southern Airlines - Ürümqi
• Iran Air Tours - Mashhad
• Iran Aseman Airlines - Mashhad, Tehran-Imam Khomeini
• Itek Air - Moscow-Domodedovo, Ürümqi
• Kyrgyzstan Airlines - Batken, Delhi, Dubai, Dushanbe, Islamabad, Jalal-Abad, Kazarman, Kerben, Krasnoyarsk, Moscow-Domodedovo, Novosibirsk, Osh, Tashkent, Urumqi, Yekaterinburg
• Rossiya - St Petersburg
• S7 Airlines - Novosibirsk
• Tajik Air - Dushanbe
• Turkish Airlines - Istanbul-Atatürk
• Uzbekistan Airways - Tashkent

There are also occasional charter flights to Seoul, Delhi, Sharjah, and Kabul.

Beware that Kyrgyz airlines do not operate sufficiently on western standards, and all of them are banned from flying over or to the European Union. As there is no state of the art landing system, fog disrupts flights. Be prepared for longer delays in winter.

Residents of the US and most European countries can purchase a 30-day visa on arrival at the airport for US$70. While there are occasional reports of requests for bribes or hassling of passengers, it is very rare. Airport personnel are generally formal and sometimes hospitable. There is an ATM in the basement of the airport, and several small cafes are open around the clock.

Manas International is also home to a US Air Force Base that provides logistics support to the forces in Afghanistan. You can see American fuel tankers and cargo jets sitting alongside old Soviet passenger jets.

Note: There are many aggressive "unofficial" taxi drivers awaiting all incoming flights. The normal rate charged by the major taxi companies to the city center is 350 soms, so you should attempt to bargain for a similar rate if you choose to take one of these taxis. Be very cautious with "unofficial" taxis, there have been robberies.

[edit] By train

There is a twice-weekly train service to and from Moscow, called the "Kirgizia" with two days operated by the Kyrgyz railways, and the other two by the Russian railways. The train has 2- and 4-berth sleepers and a restaurant car.

In addition, there is a service that goes to and from Balykchy on the western edge of the Issyk-Kul lake. Although slow and with minimal accommodation, it is one of the most scenic rail trips in Eurasia, sneaking through a thin mountainous alpine pass to the lake.

[edit] By car and bus

Bishkek is approximately a 3-1/2 hour drive from Almaty, Kazakhstan along a relatively good highway. There are also additional long distance road connections to Taraz, Kazakhstan (leading to Shymkent & Tashkent, Uzbekistan).

You can also share or rent an entire taxi from Almaty. Both KLM and Lufthansa offer bus service from the Almaty airport to Bishkek and back again so travelers can meet their early morning flights. The normal price for a seat in a shared taxi is approximately 500 som.

Shared taxis go to Bishkek as they fill up from Osh all day long. A seat will cost between 700 and 1000 som. It is also possible to buy a seat from a truck for about 500. The truck leave the bazar in Osh daily at 15:00.

Truly adventuresome travellers may want to attempt to get to Bishkek via the Chinese/Kyrgyz frontier crossing over the Torugart Pass. The pass connects Kashgar via an important route that runs along what was once the ancient Silk Road, linking Western China with the heart of Central Asia. The pass tops off at a height of 3,752 meters and is known as one of the most frustrating passes in Central Asia, as both sides can be closed for holidays, early snowfall, or just for seemingly random reasons. Only attempt this route if you have time and your patience can handle it. You will need a special permit to cross the border at Torugart. For easier crossing from China, go first to Osh through the Irkeshtam Pass.

[edit] Get around

[edit] By minibus

Kyrgyzstan's capital, like many places in the former Soviet Union, has an extensive network of minibuses, known as Marshrutkas. There are hundreds of mini-buses (marshrutkas) that ply all parts of the city. They generally cost 8 som for inner-city routes and 7-10 som for longer routes. Ask a local which mini-bus number you should take or buy a map of mini-bus routes at tourist venues. Major stops are near the Tsum department store and Philharmonia. There is also an aging system of electric trolleybuses that run along the major streets for 5 soms per trip.They typically have around 14 seats, with standing room for around ten extra people during busy periods. Marshrutkas are easily identifiable and display their number and basic route information (in Russian) on the front. To flag one down, simply hold out your right hand, parallel to the ground. Once you get on, pay the fare to the driver (the fare is 10 soms). When you want to get off say, "ah-stah-nah-VEE-tyeh" (Stop!). Note that although there are bus stops, and according to the law Marshrutkas should be hailed at bus stop only, but it is not followed too much. So, in practice you can ask driver to stop anywhere and and he will drop you off at any point on their route.

[edit] By trolleybus

Bishkek also has a trolley bus system which is less extensive and generally slower (the fare is 5 soms). They only stop at designated bus stops. Travelers enter at the back door and leave at the front, where they have to pay.

[edit] By taxi

There are several private taxi firms in Bishkek that you can easily reach through their three digit numbers including: 150, 152, 154, 156, 166, and 188. Daytime taxis throughout the city are a flat rate of 100 soms and 120 soms past 10PM. There are also numerous "gypsy cabs" situated at nearly every intersection. While most travellers and long-time expats report no problems, you are cautioned to be aware, especially at night and near nightclubs. Generally tourists use the local taxi services which can be reached through several numbers: 150 Euro (Evro) Taxi, 152 Super Taxi [2], 156 Express Taxi and 188 Salam Taxi. Before 10PM most runs in the city are 100 soms and after 1000 are 120 soms.

[edit] See

The Independence Monument on Ala-Too square, with the National Historical Museum in the background.

• Ala-Too Square - The main city square is the site of frequent political demonstrations and regular festivals. At night many vendors set up photograph and karaoke booths, however travelers should avoid visiting the square after dark. There is also a military monument with an hourly changing of guards.

• National Historical Museum - This museum sits between Ala-Too Square and the Parliament building. On the south side is an enormous statue of Lenin that was moved from the north side of the building after the Soviet Era. The bottom story of this three floor museum displays seasonal exhibits, while the second highlights Soviet-era achievements during the Communist Era. The top floor showcases the history and culture of the Kyrgyz people.

• Panfilov Park - While this park may be in need upkeep and renovation, it's a great look into the past when Kyrgyzstan was a part of the Soviet Union. Beware that few of the rides have any safety mechanisms, and the safety mechanisms they may appear to have are probably not functional. The ferris wheel offers a great view of the greater city.

• Osh Bazaar - If you're looking for a fresh sheep's head, locally made Korean picked salad, shashlik or any other type of Kyrgyz snack, this is the city's best known food bazaar. There are hundreds of products to choose from, especially in the spring and summer months when produce is fresh from farms in the outskirts of town. Like any crowded space, be wary of pick-pockets; however visiting the Osh Bazaar is a most and rewarding trip.

• M Frunze Museum, : 364 Ul. Frunze (NE of Parliament (Look for cottage enclosed in government building)). This museum houses the home of General Mikhail Frunze, the World War II and civil war general born in Bishkek (of Moldovan parents) whose name Bishkek bore until the city was renamed after independence. There are many photos and displays of early Bishkek days from an era when it was mostly a Slavic city and few vehicles existed.

[edit] Do

[edit] Learn

Bishkek is a cheap place to learn Russian (or Kyrgyz). A private 1 1/2 hour lesson with a native Russian speaker should cost between $5-7. Courses are also available at the American University of Central Asia [3] and the Kyrgyz-Russian-Slavic University[4].

There is also a private school that caters to individual learning: The London School in Bishkek [5]. This school offers Russian and Kyrgyz to anyone at anytime of the year for as little as 120 soms/hr. During the warmer months they are often full so book in advance.

[edit] Work

A number of international organizations have offices in Bishkek, however most employees are recruited from abroad. If you speak Russian, there might be occasional opportunities to find temporary or long-term work. There are also a number of English language schools that will employ native English speakers.

[edit] Buy

If you want to fit in with the locals, be sure to get one of the stylish Kyrgyz felt hats (kalpaks) worn mainly by men. You can also get textiles such as traditional patterned carpets (shyrdaks), which are well-made but can be expensive. For cheap souvenirs, avoid the Tsum department store and head directly for the Osh Bazaar. You may have to dig around the stalls as there isn't as much variety or quality as in Tsum, but the prices can be far cheaper if you put your bargaining skills to the test.

• Dor Doi Bazaar (Dordoy) (10 mins outside the city towards noth east.). Open air market with hundreds of double stack shipping containers. It's divided into multiple sections based on the types and origins of goods.

[edit] Eat

A typical Kyrgyz meal will feature starchy foods like bread, rice, and potatoes, usually centered around some sort of meat, usually lamb, mutton or beef or even sometimes horse meat. Some of the more popular staples are "plov", a Central Asian dish consisting of a bed of rice cooked in oil, topped with lamb or mutton, shredded carrots, and occasionally whole garlic cloves. Shashlyk, a marinated and grilled lamb, mutton or beef kebab, is popular all over the former Soviet Union and is typically eaten with bread, raw onion slices, a voluminous amount of vodka. Samsas, much like the Indian samosa, are available at roadside stands across the city. Usually these are cooked in a tandoor oven as a puff-baked pastry and filled with onions, mutton and mutton fat.

The national dish of Kyrgyzstan is called besh barmak (literally: five fingers, because the dish is eaten with one's hands). It usually consists of horse meat, although sometimes mutton or beef is substituted in, that has been boiled and served mixed with homemade noodles. A sheep's head is usually served along side it. If you can land an invitation to a wedding in Bishkek, you'll most likely get a chance to eat besh barmak, although you can also find it are traditional restaurants.

Russian dishes are also fairly ubiquitous in Bishkek because of the large number of ethnic Russians who still live in the city. There are a also growing number of restaurants and cafes catering to more varied tastes.

[edit] Budget

There are hundreds of stands that sell "gamburgers", a local adaptation to the American hamburger but really share little in common. They are sliced döner kebab-style meat served on a bun with cole-slaw, cucumber, mayonnaise, ketchup, and some fries. They usually cost around 20 som. One of the most popular gamburger stands in Bishkek is at the corner of Sovietskaya and Kievskaya, across the street from the main post office. It's a popular area for local students to pick up a cheap meal and they even serve the rare chicken hamburger.

Throughout the city are a lot of street-side vendors selling samsis, which is a staple of most locals' lunch. The green kiosks opposite the Philharmonic Hall ticket office sell some of the freshest, cheapest and best prepared in Bishkek and they are popular with students from the nearby universities. You can usually find a row of shashlyk grills inside any bazaar or just outside any chaykhana (teahouse).

For some pre-independence nostalgia, try the cafeterias of government ministries and universities. For about a dollar you can experience what it was (and still is) like to eat Soviet-style cafeteria food.

• Fakir - (Behind Bishkek City shopping mall) Provides authentic and safe traditional Kyrgyz food and is very popular with locals. Good sized portions and excellent prices. Open for lunch and dinner. Beer and non-smoking areas available. (80-160 som)

• Faiza - (Jibek Jolu) Excellent local food frequented by locals. Great samsas and laghman (noodles). Dirt cheap. (80-160 som)

[edit] Mid-range

• Cafe Stari Edgar - Located behind the Russian Drama Theatre; this is one of the most popular places with the expat crowd. In the summer, there is ample outdoor seating and in the winter, the bomb-shelter style building (decorated in a unique nautical motif, interesting considering the landlocked location of Kyrgyzstan!) presents Bishkek's most original dining venue. The food tends to be average, but the house band has entertained generations of visitors.

• Aria - One block south of Vefa Center, this Iranian-owned restaurant serves good Iranian and Turkish dishes while also offering Russian fare. The multi-flavored kalyan-hookahs attract a varied, hipster-like crowd.

• Cyclone Italian Restaurants - (136 Chui) Less expensive than the more upscale Adriatico, it features an extensive menu. It specializes in dishes featuring fresh veal, which is not in short supply in the mountains of Kyrgyzstan. (~250-350 som)

• Dolce Vita Pizza - (on Akhunbaeva, to the east of Manas, about one block) Possibly the best pizza available in Bishkek. Its thin crust is baked in an open-fire oven; there is also a whole range of Italian dishes and pastas. (~250-380 som)

• Doka Pizza - (corner of Akhunbaeva and Sovietskaya) Possibly the most popular restaurant in Bishkek. Regular entertainment and a menu featuring other dishes than pizza; shashlyk is also good here. Brush up on your Russian or Kyrgyz language skills as there is no menu in English (~210-300 som)

• Mexican Cantina, : 158 Prospekt Chu/Isanova (Between Beta Stores and UN House), : (312) 610823, Website: http://kyrgyzcantina.com. 11:30-22:00. Authentic Mexican restaurant in Bishkek. Real chips and salsa served when you sit down. Burritos, tacos, enchiladas, carnitas, gazpacho are served. This is the place to go for margaritas and the best happy hour in town! 150-300soms

• Metro Pub - (Chui and Turizbekova) This is where international aid workers, embassy staff, mining personnel, and Manas Airport contractors from all come together to down a pint and grab a decent meal. The staff are also quite popular and used to back and forth flirting between themselves and the expat patrons. Especially crowded on St. Patrick's Day and Halloween. (~210-300 som)

• Pirogoff-Vodkin Restaurant - (28/11 Toglok Moldo/near Kievskaya) Authentic Russian high cuisine served in a tsarist-era setting. And as expected a full vodka list. Telephone: 312-61-28-75

• Shao Lin - (Jibek Jolu and Isanova) One of the best known Chinese restaurants in Bishkek. The quality is up to most western standards, but tends to still be a little oily. The soups are especially large - better to be shared. (~210-300 som)

• Watari (corner of Frunze & Schevchenko, near the Grand Hotel) Japanese cafe with good vegetarian options. Healthy and delicious - a good break from the standard Bishkek food. (~210-300 som)

[edit] Splurge

• Restaurant Adriatico - (Chuy and Togolok Moldo) Owned by an Italian who imported his own Italian chef. The handmade mozzarella and homemade gelato are well worth the higher price. (~640-850 som)

• Four Seasons Restuarant - (across from the Hyatt) Delicious food with a large selection of European and Asian cuisine. Outside dining is available in the summer. Live music year-round, baby-sitting for the kids, and popular with foreign dignitaries. While it's not to be confused with the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York City, it's a great dining experience nonetheless.

[edit] Drink

[edit] Cafes

There are a few coffee shops in Bishkek that even feature wi-fi.

• Kafe Coffee - Two Locations- 9 Manas Ave/South of Moskovskaya & 40/1 Togolok Moldo, which is South of the City Sports Hall towards Chui. Both locations serve a variety of non-alcoholic, heavily caffeinated drinks and feature free Wi-fi. The Togolok Moldo site also has outdoor seating. As of May 2010, The Kafe Coffee located on Manas uses the SAIMA CARD - a pay system of Wi-fi.

[edit] Bars

For young and single people, Bishkek's nightlife is impressive. Foreigners are welcomed at most venues with open arms, and many times they do not need to pay a cover charge. See the "Stay Safe" section for more on how be aware while you're having fun in Bishkek.

• 2x2 Bar - (Isanava/Chui, south of Beta Stores) This recently renovated bar is a good stop early in the night before hitting the clubs. It is primarily a drinking hole and not a cafe. It also features good outdoor seating in the warm weather.

• Golden Bull - (On Chuy, next to the White House. Enter from the back yard of another building.) One of the most popular nightclubs in Bishkek. On any night of the week you are guaranteed to find a large and lively crowd full of locals, expats, and tourists. Out-of-towners get in free on weekends. Beers cost 100 som.

• Fire and Ice - (Chui and Erkindik) This popular, Pakistani-owned disco near the Bishkek city center is located right above a bowling alley.

• Retro Metro - You'll find the DJ spinning from inside a the front section of a tube train engine (hence the name). The 80's kitsch is a popular spot for really late night partying.

• Promzona - A trendy Russian rock establishment with a mostly Russian clientèle. Jazz musicians play on Tuesdays with rock and blues acts on the weekends. Check out their extensive drink menu.

• Sweet 60s - (Molodaya Gvardia and Kievskaya; near cinema Oktyabr) Live music everyday, with jazz evenings on Wednesday and Sunday.

• Mexican Cantina, : 158 Prospekt Chui/ Isanova (Between Beta Stores & UN), : (312) 610823, Website: http://kyrgyzcantina. 11:30-22:00. Central Asia's only authentic Mexican Restaurant with free chips and salsa. Burritos, tacos, enchiladas, posole, menudo, quesadillas and all the Mexican faves of North America are on the menu and made as accurately as possible. Delivery also available for 100-150soms. 150-300 soms

[edit] Sleep

[edit] Budget

• Vasiliy Guest House, : +996 772 956410, : vaslovas@mail.ru. A Kyrgyz family living in a Russian aparatment block, run this friendly homestay. it can be easily reached by buses from centre. Breakfast with fresh bread and home made jams is delicious. The mother does handicrafts and have a good collection of traditional work for sale. Vasiliy is a guide who can give useful information on treking and other out door activities. Pick-up from and drop-off to Manas International is done in father's old Lada.

• Nomad's Home, : Drevesnaya 10, : +996 312 299955, : nomadshome@gmail.com, Website: http://nomadshome.googlepages.com/. Two Kyrgyz women, Raisa and Gulnara, run this friendly homestay. Dormitories, double rooms, and tent camping are available (with one of the double rooms inside a yurt!) Breakfast served everyday with a dinner menu available on request. Informational notes posted on the walls by past visitors can be very helpful. Pick-up from and drop-off to Manas International is available as well as visa assistance.

• Sakura Guesthouse (http://sakuraguesthouse.web.fc2.com/english.html), : Michurina 38 (Walk north from the crossing of Soviet and Jibek Jolu. Turn right on the small alley between two shops. The turn is indicated also by the guesthouse's sign. Walk a bit further and then turn right on an even smaller alley. The gueshouse only has small faded sign so you might need to ask around for directions.), : Phone:+996-312-380209 Mobile:0777-324024, : (kobuhe-hikita@hotmail.com). This nice guesthouse, run by a very friendly Kyrgyz-Japanese couple, has two 6 bed dorms and a collection of single and double rooms. Bathrooms are plentiful and spotless, with Western-style toilets. More facilities are under construction. There is also a small pool, a kitchen where you can do some cooking, and an area for hanging out and chatting. Bikes and motorcycles are welcome to park inside. The Japanese half of the owners might join you to the nightlife of the city if his wife is out of town. The alleys around the guesthouse are not lit and can feel a bit scary at night. Also, the mosque next door might disturb your sleep. dm/sgl/dbl 300/500/800 som

• South Guest House, : + 996 312 472623, : south_gh@mail.ru, Website: http://www.geocities.com/south_gh. A great bargain with a nice view of the mountains outside Bishkek. The young Kyrgyz host, Nanchan, can help accommodate to your needs with traveling suggestions, sightseeing tours, before you arrive. Pick-up from Manas International is available.

[edit] Mid-range

• Alpinist, : Panfilov 113, : +996 312 595647, : alpinist@elcat.kg, Website: http://www.alpinist.centralasia.kg/. A great value in the center of Bishkek; the Alpinist has single, double, and triple occupancy rooms available with satellite TV and internet ports, a full service cafe, a conference room, and - being true to its name - a climbing wall!

• MBA Business Center Hotel, : Panfilov 237, : +996 312 623120. Lots of space, a friendly staff, but questionable comfort and some broken appliances at this hotel located inside an actual business center on the 4th floor. One thing worth noting is the absence of stairs that may bring you to safety in case of a fire: the elevator is the only way in (and out), since the staircase is blocked by a door at the 3rd floor. Anyway, the staff assured us that "there will be no fire"...

• Radison Guesthouse in Kyrgyzstan!, : Abdymomunova 259, : +996 312 32 31 81, : radison@radisonhouse.info, Website: http://www.radisonhouse.com. A guesthouse downtown with a garden, air conditioning, private baths (w/ 24 hr hot water), satellite TV, and full concierge services.

[edit] Splurge

• Ak Keme, : Prospekt Mira 93, : +996 312 540143/44/45/52, : info@akkemehotel.com, Website: http://www.akkemehotel.com/. Check in:2PM. Check out:12PM. Upscale hotel located about 8 kilometers from the Bishkek city center offers a conference center, a health club, indoor and outdoor pools with bar access, and spa services.

• Hyatt Regency Bishkek, : Sovietskaya 191, : +996 312 661234, : bishkek.regency@hyatt.com, Website: http://bishkek.regency.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/. Check in:12PM. Check out:3PM. 5-star hotel in Bishkek's business district houses Kyrgyzstan's largest in the country. Popular with foreign dignitaries and businessmen.

• Jannat, : Micro Rayon 7, : +996 312 911210, : office@jannat-hotel.kg, Website: http://www.jannat-hotel.kg/. Check in:2PM. Check out:12PM. This new hotel is located about 20 minutes outside the city center and is home to the Monte Carlo casino. Silk and felt textiles add a bit more of a Kyrgyz feel to the hotel.

• Club Hotel Bishkek, : Frunze 425-B, : +996 312 683888, : info@dostuk.kg, Website: http://dostuk.kg/en/. Check in:12PM. Check out:3PM. This upscale luxury hotel is located on the 5th floor of the Dostuk Hotel.
• Park Hotel Bishkek, : Orozbekova 87, : +996 312 665518, : hotel@parkhotel.kg, Website: http://www.parkhotel.kg/. Check in:1PM. Modern, new hotel in the business district.

[edit] Stay safe

While relatively safe compared to many major Asian cities, one should use caution after hours in Bishkek. It is highly recommended against taking an unaccompanied stroll after dusk and you definitely avoid parks at night.

Nightclubs and their surrounding areas can be a hotbed for crime in the form of theft, prostitution, or even assault by people waiting to take advantage of an unsuspecting traveler or expat. Ask locals or hotel staff which areas are safer than other and take precautions if you plan on club hopping. Do NOT walk from nightclub to nightclub at night; instead spend the 100 som ($2.50) on a taxi. Potential muggers have been known to wait outside bars and clubs (especially the ones frequented by ex-pats), follow drunk ex-pats, and then rob them.

Keep a cool head and be aware of your surroundings when hanging out inside and outside of nightclubs. Most clubs have numerous buff, semi-professional security guards, but you should be vigilant nonetheless. Do not leave any belongings on the table while you go to dance. Be careful around the taxi area outside the club; occasionally, unsavory characters pick this location to mug drunk foreigners as they leave the club late at night. You might not get much help from club security when it comes to theft.

Bishkek has a large number of prostitutes and sexual-transmitted diseases are on the rise in Kyrgyzstan and Central Asia. Always take proper precautions if you plan on being sexually active.

If you are a victim of a crime, you are probably best served by reporting the incident to your embassy, rather than to the militsya (police). Sometimes militsya will approach foreigners and ask them for documents, such as your passport. It's best to keep a photocopy of your passport and leave the original at your hotel if you can. On the rare occasion they try to fine you for having "the wrong visa", you are most likely just being set up for a shake down. Be polite, but firm, in your refusal and insist that you be put in touch with your embassy first.

Irrigation ditches and other holes in the ground can seriously injure the unaware person - especially when walking at night. Many streets are poorly lit or not lit at all, and it is easy to fall into them. Avoid manhole covers, grates, and similar fixtures - they are frequently loose and may also cause you to fall (or they may be missing altogether)!

[edit] Cope

For some, Bishkek is a little like Eastern Europe 20 years ago; more or less like a museum relic of the Soviet Union. For others, this historical quality may make it seem more like a poor city with little character. Bishkek is not an old city and possesses few, if any, ancient landmarks, aside from those leftover from the Soviet era. For most travelers, it's just a stop on the Silk Road to refresh supplies before the return to the mountains. For many international workers and their visiting guests, however, it is home. If you come with modest expectations, you might find yourself pleasantly surprised!

• The Spektator, : 71 Kommorova, : editor@thespektator.co.uk, Website: http://www.thespektator.co.uk/. This monthly guide magazine features society, culture and tourism articles on Kyrgyzstan and Central Asia. It also has a fairly extensive listing of the happenings at local clubs, bars, and restaurants. View online at http://www.thespektator.co.uk

[edit] Contact

Getting mobile phone service or even internet service is rather straight forward and a good idea, even if you're here for only a few days. You can purchase a SIM card (for GSM phones) at literally hundreds of retailers from: Beeline, Megacom, and Fonex. Also, Nexi-com and Beeline have offer 3G internet services. A SIM card is approximately 100 soms (~$2.25) and you can also now re-charge it at numerous automated machines in the city, many of which feature an English language program. If you do not have a compatible phone, you can purchase a new no-frills model for as little as 1200 soms (~$27).

[edit] Embassies

• Embassy of Germany, : Rassakova 28, : (996-312) 905-000, Website: http://www.bischkek.diplo.de/Vertretung/bischkek/ru/Startseite.html. Germany offers the Schengen Visa in Kyrgyzstan.

• Embassy of the United States of America, : 171 Prospect Mira, Bishkek 720016. Kyrgyz Republic, : (996-312) 551-241, Website: http://bishkek.usembassy.gov/. It is recommended that you visit the website for the embassy's hours and the process for arranging an appointment.

• Embassy of Uzbekistan, : Tynystanov, : +996 66 30 78. You need to call them and book a time before being allowed to submit an application. Note that many nationals (including Finnish and Dutch) need a letter of invitaion.

• Embassy of Tajikistan, : Kara-Darinskaya (Take the trolley bus 17 to south and get off the bus at the Duplex Lounge Bar. The embassy is at the end of the road that goes to the left after Duplex.), : +996 51 23 43. 10:30-?. Tajiks visas are issued in three days (including the day you submit the application) and the fees are to be paid in US dollars only. Bring a passport photo and proof of sufficient funds and prepare to write a letter explaining your travel plan and intentions. The woman working at the embassy is very friendly, helpful and speaks English. 1 USD when submitting an application, 50 USD + 50 som when picking up the visa.

[edit] Get out

Thirty minutes outside of Bishkek the 13,000 foot (4,000) meter "foothills" of the Tian Shan range (Celestial Mountains).

• Al-Archa National Park - This park goes the length of a beautiful valley where you can hike in several kilometers to a glacier. Inside the park is a hotel and couple of small cafes. Taxi services can take you and wait a few hours for about 1000 som ($25). From the newly renovated lodge you can trek to the stone house located at 3300m and it takes about 4-5 hours. The stone house charges 500som per night for bunk beds or you can camp. From there you can climb Corona Peak or Uchitel peak 4585m or head to glacier.

• Burana Tower (Just outside the close-by town of Tokmok, which can be reached with a frequent minibus departing from the east bus station of Bishkek. From Tokmok take a taxi or a bus, departing around 12 and 15, to Burana. The buses return to Tokmok around 14 and 16). A nice tower/minaret surrounded by some beautiful countryside. At the same site, there are also a small museum, some petroglyphs, burial mounds and remains of walls. 30 som to climb the tower and about 15 som to enter the museum

WikiPedia:Bishkek

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