Alexandria

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Alexandria: Arial view at new Library of Alexandria

For other places with the same name, see Alexandria (disambiguation).

Alexandria (الإسكندرية al-Iskanderiyya), Egypt's second largest city (after the capital Cairo) and the country's window on the Mediterranean Sea, is a faded shade of its former glorious cosmopolitan self, but still worth a visit for its many cultural attractions and memories of a glorious past. Alexandria nonetheless remains an important city, as Egypt's chief seaport on the Mediterranean and a home to at least 3.5 million Egyptians.

[edit] Understand

[edit] History

Sic transit gloria mundi - Alexandria was the eponymous foundation (in 334 BCE) of the Macedonian conquerer Alexander the Great (Iskander al-Akbar), a rival of Rome in its heyday, and the world's greatest center of learning for millennia... now a dusty seaside Egyptian town with an over-inflated population of 5 million. The French-style parks and the occasional French street sign survive as a legacy of Napoleon, one of Alexandria's many conquerors. But the final blow came when Gamal Abdel Nasser nationalized most of Alexandria's Greek-owned businesses, leading to an exodus of 50,000 Greeks from the country - but the few remaining Greek restaurants and cafés still dominate the cultural scene.

[edit] Orientation

Alexandria's primary promenade is the seaside Corniche. At the western tip lies the fort of Qait Bey, built near the presumed site of the former Lighthouse (Pharos in Greek), one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, while the eastern shore sprawls for miles on end with the slums and tenements of modern Alex.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

The small Alexandria Airport (ALY) is served by occasional domestic flights, and two times a week from Athens on Olympic Airlines. Lufthansa also operates direct flights from Frankfurt. The airport lies 8km/5 miles to the south east of the city. A taxi will take you 15-20 minutes and should cost no more than 40LE. Drivers always prefer to paid in sterling or in US dollars.

The equally small Borg el Arab Airport (HBE) is some 60km/38 miles to the south west of Alexandria taking about 40-45 minutes by taxi, which should cost you no more than 100LE. Borg El Arab (HBE), has replaced El Nouzha airport as the main international airport for Alexandria. As always, agree the price before you get in the cab. British Airways fly to Borg el Arab from London Heathrow on Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Thursday, with flights arriving at around 20:20. They do fly on other days via Beirut. Travellers from outside the UK can connect easily in London. Emirates will also fly you in via Dubai. BA prices start around £300 from the UK and Emirates from £330 return.

Luxor Airport (LXR) is 5.5km (3.5 miles) from Luxor. To/from the airport: There is a regular bus service to the city center (travel time – 15 minutes). Special limousine and local taxi services are available. Facilities: Car hire, bank and exchange services, and a bar and restaurant. Improvement works have taken place and are expected to continue to meet the increasing flow of tourists.

It should be noted that most travellers will come via Cairo, the country's capital. Flights to Cairo are more frequent and much cheaper. The national flag-carrier Egyptair will fly you onwards to Alexandria or Borg el Arab. Many, however, prefer the cheaper and less stressful option of the coach.

• Approximate flight times

From Cairo to London is four hours 45 minutes (from Luxor to London is five hours 35 minutes), from Cairo to Los Angeles is 16 hours 40 minutes, to New York is 14 hours 25 minutes, to Singapore is 12 hours 35 minutes, and to Sydney is 20 hours.

[edit] By train

Frequent trains from Cairo's railway station on Midan Ramses are probably the best way to get to Alexandria. Trains run at least once every hour from 6 AM to 10 PM, but try to choose either an express or the pride of Egyptian Railways, the French-built Turbo, which takes only 2 hours 10 minutes for the journey. 1st/2nd class tickets LE 25/20 one-way. Some trains (mostly slow ordinary ones) also continue on to Port Said.

Trains to Cairo depart from the aptly named Cairo Station, a 10-minute stroll south of the Corniche along Nabi Daniel St.

[edit] By car

There are two options when travelling by car, either taking the Agriculture road, which has various farms surrounding its sides, or the Desert road, which as the name implies, is through the desert with only some cafeterias and local peasants located on both sides every couple of kilometers. The journey usually takes around 3 hours, depending on speed and surrounding traffic

It should be noted, though, that driving in Egypt is not advisable unless absolutely necessary!

[edit] By bus

Taking the bus from Cairo to Alexandria is by far the most cost effective and comfortable way of transfering. Several bus companies offer the service which travels 224km/139 miles. The price, however, is well worth it: about 35LE (compared to a 100LE air fare), which converts to about $5.50. Buses are air conditioned and come complete with a hostess trolley service. Companies include Golden Arrow, West Delta and the larger firm, Pullman. Buses leave Alexandria in the mornings between 7:15am and 8:30am, although Pullman do now offer at 5.00pm service as well.

[edit] By boat

The main coastal ports are Alexandria, Nuweiba, Port Said and Suez. The Saudi Sea Transport Company runs a regular car ferry service between Suez and Jeddah. A ferry service usually travels twice per week up the Nile between Wadi Halfa (Sudan) and Egypt High Dam; it departs from High Dam on Saturday and Wadi Halfa on Tuesday. However, it is occasionally suspended. For further information, contact the Nile Valley Association (tel: (2) 578 9256). There is also a ferry service that operates twice-daily between South Sinai and Aqaba (Jordan). There are special rates for children under 12 and under three years of age. For more information, contact the Cairo Navigation Agency (tel: (2) 574 5755 or 575 5568). Many cruise ships stop over in Egypt as part of their African itinerary.

[edit] Get around

[edit] By Taxi

Alexandria's yellow-black taxis are a good way to travel inside Alex, and a cheap one as well. Be careful, taxi drivers here love to take advantage of non-Alexandrians. Some drivers will try to negotiate the price before you drive anywhere, but most won't. No taxi ride between any two points in the city should cost more than 15LE.

[edit] By tram

Alexandria has a creaky, slow but very cheap tram system that dates back to 1860 and looks the part. There are nine lines, mostly running parallel to the coast; the yellow line to Ras el-Tin is particularly useful for traveling to Fort Qait Bey. The flat fare is a whopping 15 piasters and the trip across town will take a bare minimum of 45 minutes. Note that the middle car (out of three) in each interurban (blue) tram is reserved for women only.

[edit] See

• Fort Qait Bey. Historic site At Ras el-Tin at the western tip of Alex, take the yellow tram to get there. Admission LE 6. Built by Mameluke Sultan Abdul-Nasser Qait Bey in 1477 AD but razed and reconstructed twice since.This citadel was built in 1480 by Sultan Qaitbey on the site of the Pharos Lighthouse, to protect the city from the crusaders who used to attack the city by sea.

• Bibliotheca Alexandrina. [1]. A huge modern library and research center constructed on the site of the former Library of Alexandria (destroyed c. 400 AD), located just to the east of the Corniche. Admission LE 10 (non-Egyptians). Open daily except Tuesday 11 AM to 7:00 PM, but opens only at 3 PM on Friday and Saturday.

• Graeco-Roman Museum. A history museum with a vast collection mostly dating from the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century AD, spanning the Ptolemaic and Roman periods.

• Roman Catacombs at Kam-el-Shuqqafa. Best viewed early in the morning when no one else is around. Bring a flashlight, a camera, and shoes that can get muddy. Don't surrender your camera - travel alone and say you have no camera and they don't say anything. (But watch out for the guards up above!)

• Roman Amphitheater. Ancient ruins

• Pompey's Pillar. An ancient monument, this 25-meter-high granite column was constructed in honor of the Emperor Diocletian in AD 297.

• Alexandria National Museum. History Museum with more than 1800 archaeological pieces exhibited chronologically: the basement is devoted to Prehistoric and Pharonic times; first floor to the Graeco-Roman period; second floor to the Coptic and Islamic era that highlights artifacts raised during recent underwater excavations.

• Corniche. The Corniche is a glorious 3km walkway (wharf/pier/boardwalk) along the harbour dotted with restaurants, markets and historic sights.

• Kom El-Dikka. Ancient ruins. Built in the 2nd century AD, this Roman amphitheater has 13 semicircular tiers made of white and gray marble.

[edit] Do

[edit] Diving

The Red Sea coast and the Gulf of Aqaba are deservedly popular among divers, owing to their rich marine life and shipwrecks. A large variety of coral, tiny florescent fish, giant turtles, Napoleon wrasse and nurse sharks are just some of the species inhabiting the area. The main dive centers are on the Sinai Peninsular at Sharm el-Sheikh and Ras Muhammad, a national park since 1983. Equipment may be hired and training is available for all levels of ability. Near Sharm el-Sheikh, there is a famous World War II wreck, the SS Thistlegorm and the nearby Straits of Tirian host spectacular offshore reefs, as well as two more wrecks. Live-aboard packages are available from some operators. Conditions vary according to the time of year: in February and March, the extra plankton in the water attracts manta rays and in November and December, the visibility is particularly good. A twice-weekly tour for E£5 can be taken to four islands in the Red Sea, namely Abou Kizan, The Emerald, The Rocky Island and The Two Brothers. For further information, see the Where to Go section or contact the Egyptian State Tourist Office (see General Info section).

• Note: The Red Sea coral reefs are all protected by law and persons removing ‘souvenirs’ will incur heavy fines.

[edit] Nile cruises

There are numerous cruise steamers on the Nile, the majority of which provide a very high standard of service. Vessels usually carry between 50 and 100 passengers, with the facilities varying according to the size of the individual vessel. Contacting a specialist operator is recommended for choosing a Nile cruise. Normally visitors can only book the complete package through a tour operator. Traditional feluccas may also be chartered. For further information, see Nile Cruises in the Where to Go section or contact the Egyptian State Tourist Office (see General Info section).

[edit] Golf

There is a public golf club at the foot of the Giza pyramids and there is a Gary Player course at Soma Bay on the Red Sea. Most courses either adjoin or are part of hotels; for instance, the Mena House , which is 15 minutes from Cairo. Other courses include the Alexandria Sporting Club (30 minutes from Alexandria); Jolie Ville (five minutes from Sharm el-Sheikh); Royal Valley Golf Course (25 minutes from Luxor); The Steigenberger Golf Club (30 minutes from Hurghada). The Egyptian State Tourist Office can provide further information (see General Info section).

[edit] Other

• Tennis, croquet and horseriding clubs are found in both Alexandria and Cairo. For details, ask at the hotel.
• Rent scuba gear and swim through the East Harbour's ancient remains

[edit] Learn

Alexandria has a tiny industrial section, mainly centered around the natural gas industry. A few expatriates work in this section. Other than that, there are some but not many international schools that employ expatriate teachers. Generally they pay less than the much more lucrative educational section in Cairo.

[edit] Social Conventions

Islam is the dominant influence and many traditional customs and beliefs are tied up with religion. The people are generally courteous and hospitable and expect similar respect from visitors. Shaking hands will suffice as a greeting. Because Egypt is a Muslim country, dress should be conservative and women should not wear revealing clothes, particularly when in religious buildings and in towns (although the Western style of dress is accepted in modern nightclubs, restaurants, hotels and bars in Cairo, Alexandria and other tourist destinations). Official or social functions and smart restaurants usually require more formal wear. Smoking is very common.

[edit] Buy

• The most interesting shopping area for tourists in Cairo is the old bazaar, Khan-el-Khalili, specializing in reproductions of antiquities. Jewelry, spices, copper utensils and Coptic cloth are some of the many special items. There are also modern shopping centers available, particularly near Tehrir Square. Haggling is expected, and sometimes encouraged, as a way of communication and human contact.

• Shopping hours

Winter: Tues, Wed, Fri and Sat 0900-1900, Mon and Thurs 0900-2000. During Ramadan, hours vary, with shops often closing on Sunday. Summer: Tues, Wed, Fri-Sun 0900-1230 and 1600-2000.

• International Language Bookstore 18 Abd el-Hamid el-Dib Street, Tharwat tram station. A small and pleasant little bookstore, if maddeningly difficult to find. It has a pretty decent selection of English-language books if you are into classics, and a lot of good reference books. Decent enough for children's books and beach reads.

[edit] Eat

Egyptian cuisine is excellent, combining many of the best traditions of Middle Eastern cooking, and there are both large hotel restaurants and smaller specialist ones throughout the main towns. Some of the larger hotels in Cairo and its environs have kitchens serving top quality cosmopolitan dishes. In the center of Cairo, American-style snack bars are also spreading. Restaurants have waiter service. Although Egypt is a Muslim country, alcohol is available in cafe-style bars and good restaurants. The legal drinking age is 21.

National specialties:

• Foul (bean dishes).

• Stuffed vine leaves.

• Roast pigeon (sometimes stuffed with seasoned rice).

• Grilled aubergines.

• Kebabs.

• Humus (chickpeas).

• Tahina (dip made from sesame seeds).

National drinks:

• Kahwa (thick, strong coffee).

• Shay bil na'na' (mint tea).

• Karkaday (clear, bright red drink made from hibiscus flowers).

• Aswanli (dark beer made in Aswan).

• Stella (most common beer found around Egypt).

• Sakara (another common Egyptian beer).

• Zibib (alcoholic aniseed-flavored drink).

Also, if you like ice cream, remember to ask for Alexandrian ice cream. It is similar to the typical soft-serve ice cream, but it is described as being a little bit 'stretchy'. It is available in numerous flavors, and according to the locals, this type of ice cream is only made in Alexandria and Greece.

Tipping: 10 to 12 per cent is added to hotel and restaurant bills but an extra tip of 5 per cent is normal. Taxi drivers generally expect 10 per cent.

• Elite. 43 Sofia Zaghoul. Once the favorite hangout of Alexandria's intelligentsia including D.H. Lawrence, Laurence Durrell, and Edith Piaf, but now bears a distinct resemblance to an American road diner complete with vinyl seating and chipped white plastic tables. The staff are still French-speaking and appropriately snotty. Try the plat du jour (23 LE).

[edit] Drink

[edit] Bars and Nightclubs

Visitors to Alexandria often complain that it can be hard to find a decent drinking venue in the city - what a change from the bars and nightclubs that used to fill the city before and after the war....! Even so, frequent travellers do recommend a number of reliable establishments:

• the Spitfire Bar, Sharia Sa'ad Zaghloul - easy to overlook despite its obvious location on the corner of a square on this busy street. The building looks slightly derelict but is clearly marked above the doors. Walk west along Sharia Sa'ad Zaghloul from Midan Sa'ad Zaghloul for a few blocks until the road opens up in front of you into the beginning of a square. Turn right and the bar is a few doors down on the right.
• the Havana Bar, Sharia Fouad, near Sharia Salah Salem - considered by many to be the best bar in Alexandria, a very small downtown venue with about six tables. Great atmosphere, however, and good food (no menu, just ask) alongside the usual Stella Local, Premium and Meister beers. Spirits also served at a reasonable price (unusual for Egypt). (Getting to the Havana Bar: walk west along Hurreya Street from Cinema Amir for about 500 m until the road splits with two forks to your left, one to your right and Hurreya Street carrying on straight. There should be a big building with columns on your left. Go over the junction and Havana is behind stained glass windows and a stained glass door on your right. There's no sign and you have to knock to get in).

[edit] Cafés

• Cafe Trianon. Midan Saad Zaghlul (by the seashore), tel. 48220986. The poshest cafe in Alexandria, famed for the best om ali in Egypt — although LE 14 for what is essentially a bowl of sweet cornflour pudding is little steep. The food is also good and slightly more reasonably priced, try the moussaka for LE 13.

[edit] Hotels

• Normandy Hotel. 8 Gamal el-Din Yassen - Raml Station, tel. 034806830. email. elrume4ever5@hotmail.com. The Normandy hotel is an excellent place to stay. It is a one floor hotel located on the Corniche, with unbeatable views of the city's Eastern Harbor. It is the building behind the famous Cecil Hotel, on the fourth floor. Rooms range from 15LE to 30LE per night, depending on availability, view, and season. The rooms are well-appointed, large and clean, but spare. The bathrooms are down the hall, and also clean. Staff is very friendly, helpful, and honest. The staff speaks both English and Arabic, with limited knowledge of a few other random languages.

• Short term lettings. If you're thinking of a more lengthly stay (a month or more), why not try renting in Alex? Perhaps surprisingly, lets are easy to come by, in a range of prices (180 - 1000+ LE per week) and states of repair! Landlords/ladies tend to live in the same blocks and will be willing to haggle the rates. Needless to say, it's definitely worth visiting an apartment before placing any money down, preferably in late afternoon so you see how well the lighting works and the worst of any insect problems. (Keep in mind, though, that it's highly unlikely to find any accommodation near the coast that's completely 'roach-free'!)

[edit] Mid-range

• Holiday Hotel. 6 Orabi Sq, tel. 03801559. A no-frills two-star hotel with private bathrooms and hot water, not far from the shore and within walking distance from the center of town.

[edit] Splurge

• Hilton Alexandria Green Plaza , 14th of May Bridge Road, Phone: +20 3 4209120 (Fax: +20 3 4209140), [2].
• Mercure Romance Alexandria, 303 Tareek El Gueish, Phone: +20 3 5840911-12, [3].
• Renaissance Alexandria Hotel, 544 El Geish Avenue - Sidi Bishr, Phone: +20 3 549 0935 (Fax: +20 3 5497690), [4].
• Sheraton Montazah Hotel, Corniche Road, Phone: +20 3 5480550, [5].
• Sofitel Cecil Alexandria, 16 Saad Zagloul Square, Phone: +20 3 4877173 (Fax: +20 3 4855655), [6].
• Palestine Hotel, Monteza. Houses the old king's palace and gardens.

[edit] Contact

[edit] Stay safe

Street kids harass tourists with offers to sell bango (marijuana), and nimble fingers probing pockets. They will usually desist after a stern La! or two.

Although almost every traveler in Egypt has a safe visit, a bus in Cairo was blown up on April 30, 2005, killing three tourists. Travelers are advised to avoid political gatherings and demonstrations.

The recent bombings in Sharm el-Sheikh has, with some understanding, caused much worry to those travelling to Egypt. Since the 1997 masacre of tourists at Queen Hatshepasut's Temple in Luxor (a tragedy where the finger was squarely pointed at the security services) visitor protection has been greatly improved. In fact, it is not uncommon for tourists travelling by road to receive an armed escort, especially in the presence of women and children. Tourism is much the life blood of Egypt and it seems that they have properly woken up to this by offering such reassurance.

In Alexandria, crime is perhaps as bad as anywhere else in Egypt, but only really found where invited. Therefore, a few rules of thumb should see anyone through:

Never wear a bum-bag/fanny-pack - it only advertises your valuables to the world.

Keep valuables out of sight where possible.

While Alexandria is one of the more westernised cities in a moderate Muslim country women are still advised to cover their shoulders, midrifs, cleavage and legs above the knee. This works in both parties favour: you won't receive undue attention while remaining respectful to the religion and culture of others. It's also advisable to cover your head when entering places of worship.

[edit] Cope

[edit] Get out

• Abu Mena (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) 45km southwest of the city. An ancient Christian holy city with remains of churches, basilicas and other buildings.WikiPedia:Alexandria